Here are some tips for those of you new to rebuilding Alfa v6's. Do everything at your own risk..and I am sure there are other better as well as worse ways to do this.
First: clean everything as best you can BEFORE taking apart.
work on a clean surface..I like plywood with a towel cushion under the metal parts...
Photos are not really in order.
Bag all parts and lable to make rebuilding easier. HAve you new parts ready so things don't sit around and rust..
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carillo rods and venolia pistons almost ready to go back in
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22mm socket pins the crank making crank nut removal easy
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seal prying tool..be sure you don't gouge the aluminum housing..pry top down so if you make a gouge, it is less likely to leak
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Crank polished only with gentle counter rotation and back in with new standard bearings.
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pry off screen and realy get at the dirt in the oil pump..and then put screen back on
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Last edited by x-rad on Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
tomorrow..will take heads down to local shop to see about putting in new valve guides and smoothing head surface (minimal as needed)
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make sure the tool bolts are long enough to get a wrench behing it so you can remove pully bolt, too.
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made this tool for timing gear removal
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bore guage (KD tools) and cen-tech guess'o'matic slide guage. Bores all on tight side of Cylinder "B" diameters..these were the best 6 out of 12
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as i work, i like to coat the metal parts with this stuff..it is kinda thick and sprays on...not for bearings...but keeps rust away.
The heads are off to a guy who has a pretty decent back yard shop. All he does is head work and was head machinist at one time for Ford research division. Seams like the guy to go to....
I had a spare 2.5 head for him to practice on and he was going to machine up a driving tool/mandrel for the valve guides.
Also, guides neede to be machined down a little further receive the valve guide seal better. All I could get were the standard IAP/Centerline valve guides and the teflon seal sat a little too tall. Also, we will machine down the inner guide of the lower valve spring seat washer and sink the valve guide about two mm further down on the intake side. This will allow clearance for the high lift cam...
Next rebuild will use standard American valves and guides and seats, just cut to length...much cheaper and easier to get..and everybody has the tools to work on them around here...
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bottom end..
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Federal Mogul makes a realy thick stick lube for engine assembly..not a grease..but stays in place well..easy to work with.
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Don't forget to measure cam clearance BEFORE taking apart..
Three variations of head gaskets not including the original three ring circus. The 'copper' coated one came off easily as did the black one. The Guarnit auto ones (middle) always stick and are a pain in the ass to get off..
I don't know who makes the others, but I think the black one is Reinz
I would like to get my hands on a set of the copper or the Reinz so if anyone knows where..let me know
I use a very fine flat file to clean the faces of the block and covers, followed by a light sanding with 400 grit..clean out all the little pieces with aluminum carb cleaner and air gun dry
Some gasket material will dissolve aluminum over time. I use permatex orange and have not hand any erosion issues
somebody already did some work on this block as tensioner oil galley is blocked off...
for replacement bolts..best bet is to buy an assorment of 8.8 metrics..can be found at Autozone for pretty cheap
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bag it to keep everything out
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finished front covers and new pump
TIP: drive the seal onto the cover BEFORE putting the cover on
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10mm ratchet wrench makes behind pump bolts easy to do
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very thin layer permatex on both sides of gasket..never had a leak
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shouldered bolts (8.8), stainless washers, and antiseize aluminum
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Last edited by x-rad on Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Worked on some of the things needed for the Haltech. This included plugging unnecessary holes in the thermostat housing and tapping a new hole in intake manifold for air temp sensor. Basically, the Haltech is practically made for this engine (Bosch system) so that the throttle position sensor and H2O temp sensor fit in stock locations with little work.
Air temp sensor fits on passenger side of intake manifold in a 'blank' spot perfectly.....
Just need to make a small alu mounting plate for TPS...
Use the cold start injector hole for vac to 1 bar map sensor and plug two screw holes.
Made plate for TPS from spare aluminum heat sink (the thing coil and ign unit were mounted to). Any 0-10K (or near)three wire pot will work.
Sensors are standard GM stuff from the late 90's. Don't be fooled by high priced Haltech stuff. Just bought a spare air temp and water temp sensor for 40$ with connectors. TPS sensor is a little different and I have not been able to find the same casing that they supply. Haltech TPS is about 65$.
So, most of the work is done on the intake manifold and it can all be easily reversed if you had to take the unit out for some reason.
I plan to leave the cold start air valve and hoses in place. Haltech will allow cold start enrichment so no need for cold start injector.
Tired of that wimpy 60 amp alternator? Here is BMW 90 amp conversion:
Get yourself a late 80's BMW alternator (like for the 325: Bosch # 0 120 469 777 14v/90a) These can be had rebuilt for about 90$. Get a rebuilt one because it will cost you about 60$ in bearings, copper rings, and regulator...plus it has already been tested...
anyway, conversion is simple. You can do it your own way too.
I used 1/2 inch drill bit as big bolts are easy to get in 1/2 inch. Drill lower alt. mount all the way through at 1/2inch. then grind off front aluminum spacer on front of alt. housing until flush with rest of housing face.
Cut off spacer on Alfa alt. mount as in the pics...or you can cut less off. I did it this way so I can use other alternators and not have to re-cut the mount.
I used steel pipe as a new spacer and a washer to take up any play.
Distance from center radius of belt pulley now lines up with center radius of crank pulley. Wiring is the same...one to batt and one to alt light (B+ and D+). Bosch alts come with easy to exchange volt regulators on back...however, as far as I know, you can't easily make a 60 amp alt into a 90 amp alt. Also uses a 2.2 uFd 100v cap on back..another easy change if needed...
Enjoy 90 amps and lights that don't fade.....
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all done...except for grinding top mount flush
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mount almost ready...after a little more filing
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cut longitudinal weld on back of spacer and cut outspacer...i used a sawsall w/metal blade for all cuts
I put the rear seal in before torquing the cap nuts all the way down. Makes it much easier. I also add a VERY thin layer of permatex around the outer edge of seal. Never had a leak back here with three rebuilds...
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Be sure larger con rod shoulder face oppositely for each cylinder pair (ex: 4 faces front, 1 faces rear)
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trim front crank case seal where it meets lower crank case
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cig seal placed with home made driver (just an aluminum tube with inner driving rod) use copper permatex a little dab in hole before driving...helps fill in little gaps...make sure air hole is patent in center of cig seal before driving in
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Last edited by x-rad on Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The Hal'win' computer program VERY easy to use..you can open several maps at one time. Also, there is a guage face window which is real easy to check everything at a glance...