engine tear down
Just started to take apart my spare 3.0..this engine sat for at least 12 years...but i gave it a gentle turn on the crank and it moved real easily. I was told it was a low milage engine..and I guess it is
everything is mint on the inside...looks like a brand new engine with minimal cylinder rust..heads popped right off...there was a lot of grass on the bottom oil cover??? accident victim?? Even the followers have excellent surfaces with hardening intact..
Anyway..plan is to measure..rebuild..grind edge of cam follower bores for C+B cam lobes...get some new Hastings rings...put in the Carillo rods and Venolia 10.5+ pistons show in my other post...and new water pump..gaskets..etc. Will keep stock valves and intake runners but the bosch flapper will get replaced with Haltech fuel control(still waiting on that)
should be a decent runner
everything is mint on the inside...looks like a brand new engine with minimal cylinder rust..heads popped right off...there was a lot of grass on the bottom oil cover??? accident victim?? Even the followers have excellent surfaces with hardening intact..
Anyway..plan is to measure..rebuild..grind edge of cam follower bores for C+B cam lobes...get some new Hastings rings...put in the Carillo rods and Venolia 10.5+ pistons show in my other post...and new water pump..gaskets..etc. Will keep stock valves and intake runners but the bosch flapper will get replaced with Haltech fuel control(still waiting on that)
should be a decent runner
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Bearing question:
Have the crank out...last guy to put it together must have torqued the crank nut to about 200ftlbs!! what a pain in the butt to get off...
Anyway, here is the question:
Crankpins for piston rods all measure in the red zone and are acceptable. Standard bearing in all places.
Regarding con rod BIG end:
When I take the standard con rod lower end bearing and put it into Carillo rod, the bearing protrudes about 0.5mm above one end of the end cap. On the rod side, bearing sits flush. I can tighten the cap bolts and cap sits flush on rod with the bearings in place..
The bearing that came out of the Carillo rod big end sat flush with the end cap. But the old Carillo rod bearings are 01 over from another engine and different crank.
:am I crushing the bearing?? by tightening the end cap bolts?? will it pinch the crank pin
I don't want to torque down on the rod bolts while they are on the crank and damage anything.
The carillo rods are standard type for Alfa 2.5 or 3.0 and have not been drilled or worked in any way.
The bearing and con rod are clean so bearing sits as tight to rod cap as possible.
Any help appreciated!!
Anyway, here is the question:
Crankpins for piston rods all measure in the red zone and are acceptable. Standard bearing in all places.
Regarding con rod BIG end:
When I take the standard con rod lower end bearing and put it into Carillo rod, the bearing protrudes about 0.5mm above one end of the end cap. On the rod side, bearing sits flush. I can tighten the cap bolts and cap sits flush on rod with the bearings in place..
The bearing that came out of the Carillo rod big end sat flush with the end cap. But the old Carillo rod bearings are 01 over from another engine and different crank.
:am I crushing the bearing?? by tightening the end cap bolts?? will it pinch the crank pin
I don't want to torque down on the rod bolts while they are on the crank and damage anything.
The carillo rods are standard type for Alfa 2.5 or 3.0 and have not been drilled or worked in any way.
The bearing and con rod are clean so bearing sits as tight to rod cap as possible.
Any help appreciated!!
2zig:...I remember reading the somewhere about the bearing 'proud' of the cap...
THANKS FOR THE TIPS, ALL!
C+B cams " road Max"
Lift 10.5 in / 6.5ex
Dur 282/268
Timing: 29-73/66-22
Spoke with Dan at Venolia today (very helpful)Got my piston specs: they used standard piston groove sizes so that .060 upper rings and .139 oil ring reccomended by Venolia.
Spoke with Hastings rings today as well: They sell standard 3.0 rings from their shop (which is about 1.5hour drive from my house) for 132$ + shipping ~10$.
So I think this combo (which has been used by many others as well)
of Veno pistons + Carillo rods + Hastings rings + standard hone on liners will be fine. Only thing is Carillo rods don't have little oil squirter holes in them for the cylinder walls/piston pins...don't know if that matters???
Just ordered Crank and Pin bearings and gaskets for engine. By the way, crank was in great shape with no visible scoring, scratches, etc. and measured at the pin all were within .005.
as for the power output..anything more than stock would be great
MATS: I have read pros and cons on Plastiguage. Is this soft enough not to cause micro wear on the bearings? Does it all come off? And I already microed everything and things seem good...
there was only one minor wear spot on one bearing shell and that was the rear main.
THANKS FOR THE TIPS, ALL!
C+B cams " road Max"
Lift 10.5 in / 6.5ex
Dur 282/268
Timing: 29-73/66-22
Spoke with Dan at Venolia today (very helpful)Got my piston specs: they used standard piston groove sizes so that .060 upper rings and .139 oil ring reccomended by Venolia.
Spoke with Hastings rings today as well: They sell standard 3.0 rings from their shop (which is about 1.5hour drive from my house) for 132$ + shipping ~10$.
So I think this combo (which has been used by many others as well)
of Veno pistons + Carillo rods + Hastings rings + standard hone on liners will be fine. Only thing is Carillo rods don't have little oil squirter holes in them for the cylinder walls/piston pins...don't know if that matters???
Just ordered Crank and Pin bearings and gaskets for engine. By the way, crank was in great shape with no visible scoring, scratches, etc. and measured at the pin all were within .005.
as for the power output..anything more than stock would be great
MATS: I have read pros and cons on Plastiguage. Is this soft enough not to cause micro wear on the bearings? Does it all come off? And I already microed everything and things seem good...
there was only one minor wear spot on one bearing shell and that was the rear main.
I'd use a soft pastic on tthe bearing surfaces over a steel measuring tool any day. How did you "micro" the bearing surfaces after torqueing it down without damaging it?
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!