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Barry
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Post by Barry »

"In the Plan View, the centres are aligned as before but due to say the sideways torque movement of the engine, the faces are now not parallel even though the centres are aligned. "



Mike,I dont think the engine is actually going to twist.It will have to twist to alter the // of the flywheel to clutch..It is likely to rock over on its center line as torque influences it,but never twist I reckon..Evrything should happen around its center line...

I seen some of my turbos move an inch or more under accelleration on the dyno.....some guys use a light chain that will take up just a few mm before going solid under torque....Mmmmm...
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Post by la_strega_nera »

Barry wrote::D :D :D Ben,finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A logical solution,no engineering mumbo jumbo!!!!!!!!
Welcome to the real world!! :D :D
Joking mate,but its good to see you post grinders,cutting torches an stuff..

Yes,the engine is slightly skew,but nothing that cannot be fixed..A simple way of checking how skew it is,is to put a broom stick cut to about 1 ft. in the flywheel...(This is now a South African b/stick as per mother in law issue here..)It will show up immediatly..

Mike,as for movement during operation,well,the tighter the mounts and all other goodies,the less movement..Im now talking replacement mounts as we have now dropped the engine lower(I use ,amongst others,1970 circa Ford f100,f150 mounts..)Im actually l;ooking at some Mazda 20l mounts...Theres a s.load of stuff we can use...

Note in the pic above,Jose used a type of torque bar...
You'd be impressed by my skills with a grinder.... more Artisan than Engineer.... :P

Those a v8 F-truck mount? Or the big 300cube straight six?
If they're anything like the mounts in my car, you want to drill the passenger side mount and cross bolt it, loose enough to allow movement, but pulls up tight under full noise..... they have a really nasty tendancy to peel the rubber away from the steel.
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

:roll: Damn,I dont know..Ive just always got them from a local shop..Will find out and let you know..
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Post by la_strega_nera »

Barry wrote::roll: Damn,I dont know..Ive just always got them from a local shop..Will find out and let you know..
That reminds me, those 3" long 1/2" ARP wheel studs are $20AUD for a pack of 5. Let me know if you'd like me to grab a few sets and post them over.
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

Gees Ben,Thats not money for those...Ill pm you..ok?

They are not made in China are they? :D
Arrrgh!
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Post by Arrrgh! »

Hi all,

Just joined but I've been checking out this thread as I've been
contemplating the CF driveshaft myself.

I got a couple questions:

1). One of the benefits of making a driveshaft out of CF is the ability to
change the angle of the winding to allow for varying degrees of
rotational flex. Why still use a guibo?

2). As I've been doing of research on this I've come across
a possible alternative. The '84 Audi Quattro used CV-joints on it's
driveshaft so couldn't the same be used for the Alfa?
(See it here http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepage ... c=true#top)
It would definitely be smoother than a u-joint... and last longer than a guibo!

Also, I've not had a chance to check this company out yet but they do
apparently make drive shafts with CV-joints.
http://www.gknservice.com/gkn-ids/jsp/p ... 22B5B2D6F4

Thanks,
Chris
'84 Alfa Romeo GTV6
'82 Fiat Spider
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Post by Reale »

Hello-
I have been using the CF driveshaft for about a year now, and it has been working well. The primary advantage I see is that it is a lot lighter than the stock setup, and there is no center support bearing to deal with. The motor spools up and down very quickly, and I have the subjective impression of better throttle response-particularly coming off corners. I do not have objective data to support this. A significant advantage is that, being made of carbon fiber, it will not come up through the driveshaft tunnel and maim/kill me if it comes undone.
What are the disadvantages? Well, the cost: $1500 USD. Another is that you will need to modify the shift linkage to get it out of the driveshaft tunnel. That nice taper section in the OE shaft is exactly where the pivot for the gearshift sits.
Anyway, hope that helps,
Allen
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Post by Zamani »

Al,

Can they make it for the Milano too?
Arrrgh!
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Post by Arrrgh! »

Hey Allen,

Thanks for the reply! I'll consider what you've said 'cause
every little bit of experience helps...

Chris
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Post by Reale »

Oh yes, they can make it for the Milano! Basically, I sent them the ends, and told them how far apart I wanted them, and how I wanted to yokes oriented, and they did the rest. The slip yoke is what makes it so nice, since there is a little wiggle room in the length. Also, it lets you get the rear donut off without much pain.
-Allen
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

Allen,In your opinion,what would the suitability of the cf shaft be for a daily street driven car??
We all put up with a bit of bs on a race car,but street is different..your comments??
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Post by Micke »

Now I'll cut in as well.

I thought since some time this topic actually should be under "race cars".

It makes absolutely no sense (IMHO) to put a carbon prop shaft on a street car. The money could not be much worse spent.

Then on my race car I already had it planned when the rules changed and now it's not allowed anymore. Even then this mod comes after light flywheels, race clutch, lightened crank etc.

Before doing this kind of mod, please consider what the benefits are beside the bling effect.
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Post by Mats »

I'll second that. I think it probebly comes after anything I can think of besides "lighter paint".. :lol: :wink:
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Post by Zamani »

Micke,

Is it due to the small radius of the shaft?
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Post by Sporttunergtv6 »

speaking of the shaft... i am trying to find someone to make an al. driveshaft for (hmm...) cheaper than the 1500 cf one above, but google has not been very helpful. any advice on this topic, or will i continue to have unanswered posts? :wink: :wink:
vittorio
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