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powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:22 pm

So last Wednesday I was driving home from a soccer practice and I went to push the clutch in and about half way down, it suddenly went to the floor. I was able to pump up pressure once, then parked the car and came back for it a couple of hours later.

The pedal now has no pressure at all, and there is a puddle of fluid on the floor of my garage.

I went under the car today and the slave cylinder was leaking. I gave the clutch fork a gentle tug and it came out, along with the rod that pushes on the fork.

My guess is that the slave cylinder blew a gasket, but that doesn't seem to explain the sudden loss of pressure at the start of the problem. I'm now thinking that both the slave cylinder is leaking and the ball spindle (is this the right name? It's the ball inside the transmission that the fork rests on) is broken.

Are there any tricks to removing the slave cylinder? I've gotten the circlip off, but can't get the leverage to pry it out (I can get it to turn though).

Is there any easy way to check whether the ball spindle is broken or not, short of dropping the transaxle?

Thanks a ton!

Carson

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:38 pm

I have heard that the fork and pivot on the twin plate clutch setup are prone to wear. Check the fork for excessive wear at the point that it contacts the pivot. This will give you some indication if it and the pivot are stuffed. If they are not, now is a good time to lube them.

Slave cylinder should slide out once the circlip is removed - you may just require a larger hammer

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:59 pm

Well the fork looks pretty good to me, but do you have any insights?

I'll try getting out a bigger hammer as soon as I finish my homework (don't you hate that).

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 1:36 pm

Okay, well I got under the car today and felt around inside the transmission. I could feel a bolt and nut (I think) right inside the hole, but it didn't feel like the pivot at all. Other than that, I could feel something that could turn (seems like what the fork would push against).

From this, it appears that the ball spindle (pivot) is broken and should be where that little protusion is. If this is the case, I guess I will need to fix this if that description sounds accurate.

I'll finish pulling the slave cylinder tonight and see what kind of condition it's in.

If the pivot did break, the slave cylinder would have had to extend a lot further than normal. Would this cause it to leak? Or is it most likely trashed?

Thank you again!

Carson

tectoteam · Post by **tectoteam** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:19 pm

i dont know if this help you, but...

dont worry, youre not the first that hang with the slave cylinder that fails...
that part, had somewhere a lifetime that is shortier by far than the car.

change it, and take a look at other parts, but this should be enough.

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 6:49 pm

Well, I got the slave cylinder out. It seems like the cylinder itself is in good condition. The piston also seems perfect, except for the rubber seal around its waist.

Can I buy just that o-ring? Or is this a full cylinder replacement?

I felt around again inside the hole, and I still couldn't find a ball spindle/pivot. Sounds like I'll have to fix that too.

Carson

bobsiopener · Post by **bobsiopener** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 6:56 pm

Hi,
I am currently doing the same fix as you. With the same symptoms. I was driving when all of a sudden the pedal lost resistance and the clutch wouldn't engage. My friend and I replaced the slave cylinder and then when driving home from fixing the slave the pivot ball pulled out of its threads. So i am currently fixing that.
To fix the slave cylinder:
Jack up the rear of the car and then disconnect the hoses and remove the retenstion clips. There is one infront and behind the mounting braket. It will take alot of prying to get the cylinder out (at least it did for me) once its out put the new one in and reconnect the hoses and then bleed the system (let me know if you need help with this).

To inspect the pivot ball. reach your hand in and fell the ball where you removed the pivot fork from. There should be no play. If there is let me know and I will post on how to do this fix. Before reinstalling the pivot arm make sure to greese the area of contact with the pivot ball. The symptom that the pivot ball is broken is that the pedal fell will be extremly stiff because the pivot point has now become the outside of the transmission housing.

thanks,
Bob

bobsiopener · Post by **bobsiopener** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:32 am

Hi Carson,
Thats what goes on the slave cylinders. When I had to get a new on I looked for a rebuild kit but could not find one. I ordered the cylinder from San diego Alfa (no affiliation). The delivery is very fast and its the cheapest one out there.
http://www.sandiegoalfaromeo.com/parts_ ... 7d73f57b5e
And then last night John called me to ask what I thought of the product, service, and whole experience. I was very pleased.

To get to the pivot ball what you have to do is:
Jack up the car and put on jack stands
remove the center section of the exaust ( can be tricky as the peices tend to stick togeather)
unbolt the 6 bolts connecting the Dedion crossmember to the chassis at the front of the trans
put a large hose clamp around the rear donut.
There are 3 bolts that connect the clutch to the rear donut, remove them (mark each one and where it was installed)
disconnect the shift linkage near the clutch (2 bolts)
put a jack at the center most rear section of the DeDion and Jack it up - this will lower the front of the trans.
Disconnect the bolts connecting the clutch to the trans (4 of them) and then remove the shift lever that is held in by a nut.
Support the front of the trans with a Jackstand (leave enough room inbetween the body and trans for removal)
Jack up the rear of the dedion until you can slide the Clutch off.
Now you have access to the pivot ball.

Hope this helps.
Bob

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:07 pm

Check out Bruce's Parts Bin in New Jersey...he might have the O - ring
Otherwise..he sells the slave for 60$

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 5:41 pm

I'm having a problem getting the transmission to tilt downwards. I've removed the slave cylinder, the shift linkage, and the 3 bolts holding the donut to the transmission.

However, when I try to jack up the rear deDion tube, the entire driveshaft bends as if it was sitll connected at the donut. I pulled the remaining three bolts in an attempt to see if that was the problem, but it wasn't.

Do I need to just keep jacking at let it "pop" out of the donut? Or is there some other trick to getting it out. I noticed a big nut on the inside of the three bolts that go through the donut. It appears like this is connecting the transmission to the donut.

Thanks for your help guys!

Carson

Murray · Post by **Murray** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 5:49 pm

Carson no the nut(S) you're seeing serve to fasten the yolk to the transmission input shaft and in no way retain the 'donut".What you need to do is get a substantial screwdriver etc.in between the "donut" and the yolk and pry the two apart while someone jacks the rear of the dedion up.Over time the two parts can bond together and need this extra force to pop them apart.

patzo_3l · Post by **patzo_3l** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:02 am

u need to remove the 3 bolts on either side of the crossmember. 6 in total. have u done this?

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:17 am

patzo,
If you mean the three bolts on each side of the front of the deDion, then yes I've done it.

There are six bolts in the driveshaft at the transmission yoke, do each of these need to be undone? From what I can tell, only the three actually connecting the transmission yoke to the rubber piece need to come out. Then I'll be able to pry it open with a screw driver and jack as Murray described.

I'll be back at it this evening, after school. Thanks again guys!

Carson

Murray · Post by **Murray** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:44 am

Carson that is correct you only need to remove the three boltsa that fasten the "donut" to the clutch yolk.

patzo_3l · Post by **patzo_3l** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:50 am

yep thats rite. remove those 3 thats all u need to do. also when u do finally remove it from the yoke make sure u dont lose the little washer that fits between the yoke and the donut. youll see it when u remove it.

Slave Cylinder