For those of you who have installed isostatic shift 3.0 gear boxes into GTV6:
1) what adjustments made to main shift rod?
2) did you use GTV6 axles (because of length difference)?
Next Topic (and more importantly):
3) For gear lightening, anybody have bluprint as to how much weight is taken off gears and exactly where, especially 2nd. weight can be taken off by drilling or milling. What do you recommend to maintain strength for long term use as well as improve shifting???
4) I read that synchros and shims from other style (spider?) Alfa trannys can be used in the GTV6 and Milano trannys, if used as a group?? is this true??
go to
www.alfabb.com
and type gear lightening into the search box. There are several threads on this issue...
www.alfabb.com
and type gear lightening into the search box. There are several threads on this issue...
'84 GTV6 3.0L
'81 X1/9
'81 X1/9
x-rad,
I recently installed a 75 (Milano) transaxle in a late 84 non-isostatic GTV6.
The 75 transaxle has the same final drive ratio but taller 1st and 2nd which is what the GTV6 needed with the 3.0L motor.
Had to do the following;
1. Shorten and bend the 75 shift rod to match a GTV6 iso shift rod (or just get a GTV6 iso shift rod).
2. You need the gear stick from the 75 as the lower half is longer than the GTV6 non iso stick.
3. Panel beat the floor under the back seat to make room for the iso linkage. The iso GTV6 floor pan has this. This could be done by cutting and welding but I achieved sufficient clearance with a length of pipe and a large hammer and with the help of a friend we managed to create the "bulge" in the floor pan without tearing the metal. Painted and rustproofed, it looks fine.
4. One other thing I discovered, is the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is also different so you need the one from the 75.
5. Axles are the same length as the GTV6, just a different size spacer where the axle bolts to the transaxle.
6. Speedo was fixed using one of the Dakota Digital units and works perfectly.
I also replaced the bush on the lower section of the gear stick, a new rubber dust boot and also greased and tightened up the ball sockets on the iso linkage. The shift is now nice and firm.
Hope the above helps.
David
I recently installed a 75 (Milano) transaxle in a late 84 non-isostatic GTV6.
The 75 transaxle has the same final drive ratio but taller 1st and 2nd which is what the GTV6 needed with the 3.0L motor.
Had to do the following;
1. Shorten and bend the 75 shift rod to match a GTV6 iso shift rod (or just get a GTV6 iso shift rod).
2. You need the gear stick from the 75 as the lower half is longer than the GTV6 non iso stick.
3. Panel beat the floor under the back seat to make room for the iso linkage. The iso GTV6 floor pan has this. This could be done by cutting and welding but I achieved sufficient clearance with a length of pipe and a large hammer and with the help of a friend we managed to create the "bulge" in the floor pan without tearing the metal. Painted and rustproofed, it looks fine.
4. One other thing I discovered, is the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is also different so you need the one from the 75.
5. Axles are the same length as the GTV6, just a different size spacer where the axle bolts to the transaxle.
6. Speedo was fixed using one of the Dakota Digital units and works perfectly.
I also replaced the bush on the lower section of the gear stick, a new rubber dust boot and also greased and tightened up the ball sockets on the iso linkage. The shift is now nice and firm.
Hope the above helps.
David
1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red