propshaft installation
I have my propshaft out at the moment and I intend to put it back in tomorrow. I know there are some people here who have played games to make sure the shaft is settled before bolting it in. Could someone explain this process to me?
The way I understand it, I should put the shaft in, bolt it to the flywheel and clutch spider, but not tighten the nuts all the way. Then rev the engine a bit (how many RPM? how long?) and tighten the front bolts. Rev the engine again, then tighten the bolts at the rear.
I am nervous to try this without clarification.
Thanks,
James
The way I understand it, I should put the shaft in, bolt it to the flywheel and clutch spider, but not tighten the nuts all the way. Then rev the engine a bit (how many RPM? how long?) and tighten the front bolts. Rev the engine again, then tighten the bolts at the rear.
I am nervous to try this without clarification.
Thanks,
James
bump,
I also noticed a flywheel stud which had a bit of play. The play allows me to rotate the stud a few degrees, but I wonder if it allows the stud to deflect more than normal at high RPM. Is this stud play common or problematic? The front donut which I removed looked fairly new to my eyes. I had inspected it previously and thought it was fine because the good side was facing down.
Basically it is a good looking donut on two sides and on the third, it is missing a large chunk. This is on a stock 3.0 that I have never really driven hard.
I think I will try bolting the driveshaft up without any tricks. It think it will balance ok since it was drivable with the front donut missing 1/6 of its rubber...
I also noticed a flywheel stud which had a bit of play. The play allows me to rotate the stud a few degrees, but I wonder if it allows the stud to deflect more than normal at high RPM. Is this stud play common or problematic? The front donut which I removed looked fairly new to my eyes. I had inspected it previously and thought it was fine because the good side was facing down.
Basically it is a good looking donut on two sides and on the third, it is missing a large chunk. This is on a stock 3.0 that I have never really driven hard.
I think I will try bolting the driveshaft up without any tricks. It think it will balance ok since it was drivable with the front donut missing 1/6 of its rubber...
Zambon,
you have the right idea, put it all together with the bolts nipped up tight to start off with. once fitted. run it for 30 seconds, shut it down, then back off all the nuts/bolts a turn or two to losen. start up,let idle for a bit, then rev up to 1500rpms or so, let idle for a while, shut down, and torque them all up again. then run. it just removes any uneven stresses if there were any, allowing the whole lot to sit "neutrally" so to speak. It wont do any harm, since you are not gunning the revs.
I have done this with mine a few times when it has given me vibration issues, and it sorted it ok. with a large chunk of the donught missing, why not replace the donught whilst out?
As for the loose stud? pass.
you have the right idea, put it all together with the bolts nipped up tight to start off with. once fitted. run it for 30 seconds, shut it down, then back off all the nuts/bolts a turn or two to losen. start up,let idle for a bit, then rev up to 1500rpms or so, let idle for a while, shut down, and torque them all up again. then run. it just removes any uneven stresses if there were any, allowing the whole lot to sit "neutrally" so to speak. It wont do any harm, since you are not gunning the revs.
I have done this with mine a few times when it has given me vibration issues, and it sorted it ok. with a large chunk of the donught missing, why not replace the donught whilst out?
As for the loose stud? pass.
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propshaft
Ive always found it is better to first bolt up all the donuts ie the gearbox end the centre donuts the support in the center and even the six bolts on the flywheel. However do not tighten the pinch bolt on the front coupling when first installing the prop instead, once you have tightened all the couplings start the car, let it idle for a few minuites rev to around 3500rpm or even take the car out for a drive for ten minuites or so (again dont go over 4000rpm)then switch off the car and then finally tighten the pinch bolt (really tight) and then test. This allows the prop to find its natural for and aft centre and reduces any vibratation .Dont worry about small vibrations initially as these will iron themselves out over a short period of time
I recentley replaced all the donuts on my gtv6 and followed this procedure and it worked fine for me. Hope this helps
I recentley replaced all the donuts on my gtv6 and followed this procedure and it worked fine for me. Hope this helps
What I meant here is that since it wasnt a disaster when it had a chunked donut, it should be better now no matter what. I replaced all three donuts.I think I will try bolting the driveshaft up without any tricks. It think it will balance ok since it was drivable with the front donut missing 1/6 of its rubber...
I think I will get it out for a test tomorrow.
I installed the shaft before the driveshaft before the advice was posted here and I thought everything was going great. The shaft spun smoothly to the rev limit. I even drove the car around for a week with no mufflers. The Mexicans didnt seem to mind that it was as louder than a small aircraft. I got a lot of compliments on the sound.
and then....
Last week I took the car to the exhaust shop to have the exhaust center section installed (stock exhaust, but welded together by P/O, grrr.) Now that it has the silencers, there is a rattling sound apparent. I listened from under the car with the engine running and the sound is coming from the front of the shaft. I am wondering if this is due to the fact that I installed new donuts and didnt move the pinch bolt.
What should I do now? Should I try reseting the pinch bolt as Darryl suggested?
and then....
Last week I took the car to the exhaust shop to have the exhaust center section installed (stock exhaust, but welded together by P/O, grrr.) Now that it has the silencers, there is a rattling sound apparent. I listened from under the car with the engine running and the sound is coming from the front of the shaft. I am wondering if this is due to the fact that I installed new donuts and didnt move the pinch bolt.
What should I do now? Should I try reseting the pinch bolt as Darryl suggested?
Zambon, how loud is the rattle?, are we talking mechanical rattle or tin can type rattle? I have a rattle at idle when cold on my car, from the same area after having the centre and downpipes replaced, basically it is something hangng loose inside the centre box or downpipe ovals, which rattles around or resonates inside the exhaust until warmed up, a piece of silencing material or something, it has been doing it 5 years, and deosn't really bother me.
This rattle isnt extremely loud. I couldnt detect at all it before I had the mufflers reconnected. I think it sounds mechanical and not "tin can." I put my hand on the exhaust pipes while it was rattling away, and I couldnt feel it.
Today I fired it up to listen to it some more, and I noticed that it seems to make a squeaking sound too. I am wondering if it is the centering bearing that extends forward in the front and into the flywheel. I greased it on installation, and I tried to put grease into center of the flywheel as well, so I dont know what else i could have done differently.
It just seems wierd that it doesnt vibrate at high rpms, yet it rattles at idle. Thanks for the replies.
Today I fired it up to listen to it some more, and I noticed that it seems to make a squeaking sound too. I am wondering if it is the centering bearing that extends forward in the front and into the flywheel. I greased it on installation, and I tried to put grease into center of the flywheel as well, so I dont know what else i could have done differently.
It just seems wierd that it doesnt vibrate at high rpms, yet it rattles at idle. Thanks for the replies.
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