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long time promised photos, i remenber today...
and applause my english , thx
CLIC on PIC to get hi-res in a new window.
Mats already described the rebuilding procedure, so i dont do it again.
this is just intended to make you understand that failure is not far away after a rebuild with new bearings or different parts from different gearboxes or new big parts.
Most of theses tools are someway a copy of the alfa ones.
i give the ~alfa # equal for each tool name
1st pic:from left to right
1st line
-pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools (C.5.0123 'axle shaft', C.5.0124 'the wheel', C.5.0125 'its the rubber hose cheaper than expansible alfa thing').
-punch to fit outer cage diff bearings (A.3.0272).
-little punch to pull out inner cage diff bearings.
2 line
-the 4 smalls things: kind of washers to stick the intermediate flange and rear housing case.
3 line
-pinion heigth 'gauge' (this one for the 10/41 heigth).
-pinion heigth 'the other tool' (A.6.0164 somewhere the same use).
-tool for outa the diff bearings cages.(A.3.0287, small 2 hooks puller)
2 pic:Rear view of the pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools.
3 pic:Needed "standart" tools, 36 deep socket and 30 U wrench with welded square 1/2" (A.5.0181) to torque the both shafts
HOW THESES TOOLS WORKS :
alfa group 17 (diff and rear 1/2 axles)tech notes is a great working friend for this.
1st !
set pinion heigth clearance
depending of pinion/crownwheel you are running the value changes...check in the alfa tech papers, also in 90 casings its different to...double attention to check value)
The pinion heigth tool (middle bottom 1st pic) (A.6.0164) is used to imagine a virtual position of the diff axle line, yu fit it in place of the left rear out splined shaft (tool must be very accurately concentric machined to works)
The washer tool (left bottom 1st pic, very precise thickness and // machined) is fitted beetwen the secondary shaft pinion head and the pinion heigth tool.
then feeler gauge mesure how much is missing...
and with a lot of additions and substraction...you know the distance and if its good or not.
Alfa tools use a dial clock feeler but do the same operation; he check the distance beetwen pinion head and diff axle virtual line.
2nd:
set pinion/crownwheel play and diff bearings preload with pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools
i guess you can check the play with some plastigauge, sounds acrobatic but should work as well.
in the same time you do the both...and...in most common of times you need to do it many times to reach the rigth level...
2nd shaft must be blocked (gear box casing to, is preferable), diff assembled and casings torqued ect....
put the entire tools in the diff left side, the rubber part is at splined "level".
A cylindric face of the tools are touchin the diff inside hole to center it as well to make rotation very concentric with diff.
just near rubber hose there is a tapered cone that allow you to dilate hose vs splined diff core.
then : the tools will rotate with the diff whitout any play and very concentric
look at the pizza part of the tool, there is 4 "steps"....this helps you so set the pinion/crownsheel clearance:
you mark a sign at the right distance from center to check it (ex 77mm for 10/41 in memory )
put the dial clock gauge facin the mark at right distance and check the value by acting the pizza. should move just a few. (look at pic 4 under here, dont pay attention to others things..i know that GB is not blocked..ect...it is just to show)
this is a virtual value of the pinion/wheel clearance.(~0.1-0.2mm)
after the bearings preload...i check it with some weigth pulling a rope that rotate the pizza like alfa fools says.
for this...i unblock the 2nd shaft and rotate the pizza by acting the weigth pull the rope to the ground. thx to gravity. (springed or digital force dynanometer should make things easier..i will take one in future)
then feel at how much weigth this begins to drive...50-70 N*cm for used bearings and close to 200 N*cm with new bearings.
you can do the same thing with a torque wrench.
then you can play with nicely skimmed diff bearings washers...and retry... and retry...very hard to get this fine at first try, see if you are lucky...
tools you need to:
-lot of room
-home made tools to hold the intermediate flange in a bench...to screw/unscrew the 30 and 36 nuts of the 2 shafts.
-tool to block the secondary shaft in rotation(i used a toothed sector with a kind of screw and things...)
-common metric tools...
-torqy torque wrench 120 N*m at least
-feeler gauges
-dial clock gauge with base magneted or not...
-10 mm square socket for square head plugs(springs balls that get middle stroke of head gear axle levers) (as if there are somewhere hardly blocked, trying to outa them with a U wrench key can round the square head and make you crazy).
-cleaner...degreaser-cetone-brake cleaner-explosives, and a place to make dirty things.
-meters of cleaning paper
-latex gloves
-12 Pack of beer
-a friend to screw up the beers
Also if you are going to service the box: bearings, synchros rings..ect...
-snap ring pliers, a straigth small one that close (for 2 needle roller on 1st shaft), and a big one that open rings (90° one is preferable for syncrho rings)
-tons press and a lot of tools to use it in different ways...to outa the recalcitrant things.
-................... .............
DISCLAIMER ( )
Every tool can be 'home made', unfortunately most common require a lathe.
but at the closer machine shop theses things are very simple to do.
i dont share any draws as if you dont had two left hands you can gues them, also to keeps gearboxes safe:
as a mistke in conception can simply result of a nice gearbox whinning and metal sparkling.
then if you want to go to this route you are enough skilled to do it yourself, all this is only to show how things works...
blabla...blabla...
and applause my english , thx
CLIC on PIC to get hi-res in a new window.
Mats already described the rebuilding procedure, so i dont do it again.
this is just intended to make you understand that failure is not far away after a rebuild with new bearings or different parts from different gearboxes or new big parts.
Most of theses tools are someway a copy of the alfa ones.
i give the ~alfa # equal for each tool name
1st pic:from left to right
1st line
-pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools (C.5.0123 'axle shaft', C.5.0124 'the wheel', C.5.0125 'its the rubber hose cheaper than expansible alfa thing').
-punch to fit outer cage diff bearings (A.3.0272).
-little punch to pull out inner cage diff bearings.
2 line
-the 4 smalls things: kind of washers to stick the intermediate flange and rear housing case.
3 line
-pinion heigth 'gauge' (this one for the 10/41 heigth).
-pinion heigth 'the other tool' (A.6.0164 somewhere the same use).
-tool for outa the diff bearings cages.(A.3.0287, small 2 hooks puller)
2 pic:Rear view of the pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools.
3 pic:Needed "standart" tools, 36 deep socket and 30 U wrench with welded square 1/2" (A.5.0181) to torque the both shafts
HOW THESES TOOLS WORKS :
alfa group 17 (diff and rear 1/2 axles)tech notes is a great working friend for this.
1st !
set pinion heigth clearance
depending of pinion/crownwheel you are running the value changes...check in the alfa tech papers, also in 90 casings its different to...double attention to check value)
The pinion heigth tool (middle bottom 1st pic) (A.6.0164) is used to imagine a virtual position of the diff axle line, yu fit it in place of the left rear out splined shaft (tool must be very accurately concentric machined to works)
The washer tool (left bottom 1st pic, very precise thickness and // machined) is fitted beetwen the secondary shaft pinion head and the pinion heigth tool.
then feeler gauge mesure how much is missing...
and with a lot of additions and substraction...you know the distance and if its good or not.
Alfa tools use a dial clock feeler but do the same operation; he check the distance beetwen pinion head and diff axle virtual line.
2nd:
set pinion/crownwheel play and diff bearings preload with pinion/crownwheel and diff bearings preload adjust tools
i guess you can check the play with some plastigauge, sounds acrobatic but should work as well.
in the same time you do the both...and...in most common of times you need to do it many times to reach the rigth level...
2nd shaft must be blocked (gear box casing to, is preferable), diff assembled and casings torqued ect....
put the entire tools in the diff left side, the rubber part is at splined "level".
A cylindric face of the tools are touchin the diff inside hole to center it as well to make rotation very concentric with diff.
just near rubber hose there is a tapered cone that allow you to dilate hose vs splined diff core.
then : the tools will rotate with the diff whitout any play and very concentric
look at the pizza part of the tool, there is 4 "steps"....this helps you so set the pinion/crownsheel clearance:
you mark a sign at the right distance from center to check it (ex 77mm for 10/41 in memory )
put the dial clock gauge facin the mark at right distance and check the value by acting the pizza. should move just a few. (look at pic 4 under here, dont pay attention to others things..i know that GB is not blocked..ect...it is just to show)
this is a virtual value of the pinion/wheel clearance.(~0.1-0.2mm)
after the bearings preload...i check it with some weigth pulling a rope that rotate the pizza like alfa fools says.
for this...i unblock the 2nd shaft and rotate the pizza by acting the weigth pull the rope to the ground. thx to gravity. (springed or digital force dynanometer should make things easier..i will take one in future)
then feel at how much weigth this begins to drive...50-70 N*cm for used bearings and close to 200 N*cm with new bearings.
you can do the same thing with a torque wrench.
then you can play with nicely skimmed diff bearings washers...and retry... and retry...very hard to get this fine at first try, see if you are lucky...
tools you need to:
-lot of room
-home made tools to hold the intermediate flange in a bench...to screw/unscrew the 30 and 36 nuts of the 2 shafts.
-tool to block the secondary shaft in rotation(i used a toothed sector with a kind of screw and things...)
-common metric tools...
-torqy torque wrench 120 N*m at least
-feeler gauges
-dial clock gauge with base magneted or not...
-10 mm square socket for square head plugs(springs balls that get middle stroke of head gear axle levers) (as if there are somewhere hardly blocked, trying to outa them with a U wrench key can round the square head and make you crazy).
-cleaner...degreaser-cetone-brake cleaner-explosives, and a place to make dirty things.
-meters of cleaning paper
-latex gloves
-12 Pack of beer
-a friend to screw up the beers
Also if you are going to service the box: bearings, synchros rings..ect...
-snap ring pliers, a straigth small one that close (for 2 needle roller on 1st shaft), and a big one that open rings (90° one is preferable for syncrho rings)
-tons press and a lot of tools to use it in different ways...to outa the recalcitrant things.
-................... .............
DISCLAIMER ( )
Every tool can be 'home made', unfortunately most common require a lathe.
but at the closer machine shop theses things are very simple to do.
i dont share any draws as if you dont had two left hands you can gues them, also to keeps gearboxes safe:
as a mistke in conception can simply result of a nice gearbox whinning and metal sparkling.
then if you want to go to this route you are enough skilled to do it yourself, all this is only to show how things works...
blabla...blabla...
2 stroke addict
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
Mats, you mentioned earlier a non lsd pinion and lsd pinion. I know you can mix and match them but you can run LS with both types as long as the with there 'partner' crown. Somehow I have. The pinion with the thin teeth is normally the type i shred. Shed some light here.
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
Error above. CANT mix and match them. should read
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
Sorry but Idon't understand, is there a question in there somewhere? Or was it just a tip to not use the "thin" pinions?
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
No , it was just a comment you made that a particular pinion and crown set you would not work with a LSD. Maybe it was a mis interpretation from the Banana republic. I am still raeding through all posts so i dont screw up this old ls when i assemble it. Sadly the owner of this unit before me did not have shims to set backlash so he just machined the unit . not only did they remove to much of the shoulder but they also removed a bit off the diameter. This resulted bearing inner spinning on LS and distorting it. The bearing fit needs a positive clearence(press fit 0.03mm) so it will have to be machined and hard chromed. If i had another unit I would throw t away.
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Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
No, I just said the non-stock-LS needs a spacer to fit the LSD.
Hard chrome? You need to grind the bearing seats to Ra1.2-1.6 and a press fit of course.
Hard chrome? You need to grind the bearing seats to Ra1.2-1.6 and a press fit of course.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a modem)
Kevin,
you have other options... You could sleeve the bearing location or weld and re machine or flame spray.
i think a sleeve would be best then weld and then thermal spray
you have other options... You could sleeve the bearing location or weld and re machine or flame spray.
i think a sleeve would be best then weld and then thermal spray
MR1 Zig (I made rate!)
Machinery Repairman USNR
Machinery Repairman USNR
Re: Gearbox rebuild (Lots of pics, hope you don't have a mod
I'm going to kick this topic, As I'm currently dismanteling a 75ts box (which has no diff anymore)
Main reason is because I want to use the syncro rings and dog gears for my gtv6box so it's a better shifter.
The car has increased horsepower, and if possible I would like to put in a LSD as well.
I'm working quite slow, but this is how Far I currently am If people want more pictures, just shout
& Mats! Some picutures don't work anymore! Could you please check/re upload them ?
Main reason is because I want to use the syncro rings and dog gears for my gtv6box so it's a better shifter.
The car has increased horsepower, and if possible I would like to put in a LSD as well.
I'm working quite slow, but this is how Far I currently am If people want more pictures, just shout
& Mats! Some picutures don't work anymore! Could you please check/re upload them ?
Black '80 3.0 24v GTV6. Flawed maybe, But absolutely glorious!