Since I got my current car I have had intermittent starting hesitation. I cleaned my terminals, which were corroded, but the problem just kept on happening.
I thought that the problem could be the ignition switch, battery, or alternator. I took the machine down to the Autozone for a (free) test of the battery and alternator. The battery was putting out just over 8V. I have no idea how it even started the car.
It seemed that I would be buying a new battery. This news had me bummed out because I didnt want to buy a normal autozone brand battery, I wanted something nice like an Optima or one of those 13 lb racing ones. The standard autozone battery (bought in Mexico) costs 75% what the Optima would cost in the US.
Since the car has been starting with this battery, I asked them to just charge it for me and I would figure out if I was buying their battery or buying a used one as a temporary thing until I can go back across the border to get the battery I really want.
While they were charging the battery I noticed that the bolts that hold the engine mount to the chassis had backed out. I checked and the nut that is on the bottom of the engine mount was completely missing. On the passenger side it was the same deal. The car`s PO did a motor swap and I guess he didnt have any locktite. I felt lucky to have seen that loose bolt.
As I was tightening the bolt on the driver`s side, I noticed that the cable that connects to the alternator seemed frayed. Closer inspection revealed that it was in fact quite frayed. I stripped the cable back and put a new end on it ($2). I re-installed the battery (now charged) and went on my way. Several days later, my battery voltage is still above 12. I think that the frayed wire at the back of the alternator had caused increased resistance and kept my battery from properly charging.
The point here is that you should check to make sure the alternator is well connected before doing anything drastic like buying a battery.
Update,
My battery voltage remains high, but other curious things are creeping up. First of all, the battery light on my ARC comes on from time to time, but goes away while I am running the car. Then when I am parked, engine running, rolling up the windows by electric power, it comes on again.
In addition, the starter solenoid seems to be bad. I often need to turn the key off and on several times before the starter turns. I cant figure out how to get the starter out to have it rebuilt. Anybody have any advice on removing the starter? I have posted about starter removal on the BB since that site is more focused on daily driver problems...
My battery voltage remains high, but other curious things are creeping up. First of all, the battery light on my ARC comes on from time to time, but goes away while I am running the car. Then when I am parked, engine running, rolling up the windows by electric power, it comes on again.
In addition, the starter solenoid seems to be bad. I often need to turn the key off and on several times before the starter turns. I cant figure out how to get the starter out to have it rebuilt. Anybody have any advice on removing the starter? I have posted about starter removal on the BB since that site is more focused on daily driver problems...
the alternator circuit is probably battery sensed, rather than machine sensed, hence;
If the charging light dims as you increase the engine revs, then your alternator output is on the low side. If it brightens, then your battery is weak.
Its possible that, since the car has been running with a high resistance connection to the batt from the alternator, that one or two of the alternator diodes have got damadged, and the output is low, say 11volts,l instead of 14 or so.
If the charging light dims as you increase the engine revs, then your alternator output is on the low side. If it brightens, then your battery is weak.
Its possible that, since the car has been running with a high resistance connection to the batt from the alternator, that one or two of the alternator diodes have got damadged, and the output is low, say 11volts,l instead of 14 or so.
Zambon,
with the ignition turned on, measure the voltage across the alternator terminals, and you should get the battery voltage. Start the car, and measure the voltage again, you should get an increase of 2-3 volts, depending on the battery voltage. Thats a healthy alternator. Running with batt terminals disconnected, wouldnt work, the alternator is battery sensed. to measure at different rpms, you just need a brave soul, to measure across the alternator terminals, without getting a hand ripped off!!
with the ignition turned on, measure the voltage across the alternator terminals, and you should get the battery voltage. Start the car, and measure the voltage again, you should get an increase of 2-3 volts, depending on the battery voltage. Thats a healthy alternator. Running with batt terminals disconnected, wouldnt work, the alternator is battery sensed. to measure at different rpms, you just need a brave soul, to measure across the alternator terminals, without getting a hand ripped off!!
I think I have the starting problem fixed. I installed a relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid today and it has been starting with no hesitation since. The ARC is still acting kind of wierd with regard to the battery light, but my battery is always at 12.8 volts or more at the end of the day. Not sure what to make of that...
James,Snap On make a wonderful battery load tester and diode checker..It will also allow you to see the output of the alternator..
I paid about R1500.00 16 years ago..So you might have to sell your granny to get one today..
Its worth having though..
I paid about R1500.00 16 years ago..So you might have to sell your granny to get one today..
Its worth having though..
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.