ALFAGTV6.COM

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:53 pm

Thanks! I consider myself lucky as I have four distributors to toy with. I may leave a few messages for you in case I do something wrong. That is if you don't mind.were the instructions provided by Crane pretty detailed?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 2:57 pm

another alfagtv6 member says that some advance is controlled by Bosch ignition computer.

Personally, i have not had any problems and this may be due in some part to increased spark duration by the XR3000...???

Crane only has 6 wires ..three to dizzy, two to coil, and one to ground...can't really screw it up

Hardest part is dizzy conversion where you have to make sure your mount is secure

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 3:42 am

So how do you map the ignition curve?

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:54 am

X-rad, all I can say is that Fred DiMatteo had posted an article which called to simply snip off the two wires going to the ignition advance sensor located on the thermostat housing (deemed useless), an Alfa service bulletin confirmed this a few years later. I have a 2.5 engine in my Milano, but I am operating an old Pandora's Box from Alfa Heaven as far as brains go. I am not sure if this bulletin included the 3.0 motor as well (most likely), The only 3.0 motor I had the pleasure of operating is the one in my recently departed and much missed, soon to be re-purchased 164S. But this is a totally different story, as you well know it is a different Bosh System alltoghether. probably this is the advance this person was talking about? In this case, mine has not existed for the past seven years.

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:54 am

X-rad, all I can say is that Fred DiMatteo had posted an article which called to simply snip off the two wires going to the ignition advance sensor located on the thermostat housing (deemed useless), an Alfa service bulletin confirmed this a few years later. I have a 2.5 engine in my Milano, but I am operating an old Pandora's Box from Alfa Heaven as far as brains go. I am not sure if this bulletin included the 3.0 motor as well (most likely), The only 3.0 motor I had the pleasure of operating is the one in my recently departed and much missed, soon to be re-purchased 164S. But this is a totally different story, as you well know it is a different Bosh System alltoghether. probably this is the advance this person was talking about? In this case, mine has not existed for the past seven years.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 3:02 pm

Allalfa: thanks...makes me feel better...Unfortunately I have a Fankenstein wiring harness mixed of 3.0 and 2.5 stuff

all coming out anyway...

MAts: not maping ignition, going to just use vac advance (old school)

and super computer modulated injection (new school)

= semi reliability (which is all I want for the least amount of casholie)

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:09 am

X-Rad, I am assuming that the crane system will eliminate the functionality of the control module located under the coil? I hope yes, since I want to eliminate the need for this. Mine is out of commission and I can't seem to be able to order one through IAP. I just don't want to have to buy a whole new coil pack every time this part goes bad, and quite frankly, it seems to me as the Pandora's box os the cause of the high module consuption my car has gone through.

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 2:55 am

I ordered the Crane yesterday, I will let you know how it worked. Thanks.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 4:23 am

Allalfa: My wiring consisted of 2.5 electronic ignition parts and 3.0ECU (which ran the engine very well until lately)

Crane completely eliminates the ign module under the coil. Also unhooked is the ign module near the fusebox (under dash-this was the 2.5 ign unit, too). Basically, the only original part I am using is the regular old Alfa/bosch coil and its mounting bracket (and the stock ign wires)

Crane unit provides a slightly more accurate spark signal (which can be obtained even with minor dust/oil on the leds-I tested this)

Crane provides dwell adjustment based on rpms

Crane provides voltage to primary coil in the coil.

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:46 pm

Sweet

I can't wait to eliminate this old problem, I think Zat's ECU does not like the ignition modules at all. Anyway, the link says it will ship within 24 hours, crap, it has been a few days already, I am running impatient. I will follow your link with the installation pictures just for clarity's sake. I'll let you know how it goes.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:53 pm

allalfa: I bought mine from Crane in florida..it was to me in michigan in 1 week.

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 7:06 pm

Xrad, so did I, I utilized your link, I have it in my hand. Say, which set of instruction did you follow, the ones with the Bosh magnetic pickup or the ones with the hall effect distributor? My dizzy looks identical to the one with the hall sensor. Thanks!

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 7:09 pm

Also, here is talking about bypassing anOE ballast resistance? What's the deal with this?

allalfa · Post by **allalfa** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 7:10 pm

Ok, your post says non ballasted, clear as daylight.Sorry...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:30 am

ALLALFA: take your time! relax...this is the part of the fun trying to get everything working........

Wire it up just like my pics...hall effect bosch system has no ballast.

Use the hall effect instructions...JUST BE CAREFUL removing your old hall chopper wheel...DON'T damage the carrier plate underneath. Don't lose any of the clips..you will need them to hold the new wheel in place.

You will have to use the hole like in my picture to mount the little bracket pieces (they are kinda flimsy)

ALSO, don't use the mounting screw they provide, use a hardened or coated machine screw and tap the hole in the carrier plate. I also used blue threadlock on the final install.

ALSO: unless you are absolutely positive about your timing, REMOVE the passenger side valve cover to get everything all lined up! Rotor phasing is EXTREMELY important for everythin to work correctly. Before removing your dizzy...mark where everything is (rotor tip, rotor housing, cam position, etc..) very easy to put rotor back in one tooth off which will screw it all up!