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- Verde
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Once you've built your 400hp motor for your 23 year old car, don't forget you're also going to have to uprate your wheels, tyres, brakes, suspension, transmission, bodywork, guages and life insurance policy. (Particularly your life insurance - my 14 year old 75 with only 200bhp is anything but foolproof - it will bite your backside if you don't give it respect.)
N.
N.
Just finished off ten sets of headers. Took forever but it done. They clear every thing and work well. Lenz you can see in the one pic it clears sump well.
These are far from tuned lenght headers but are a lot easier to work with. Few pics to follow. Sadly this was all i made and they are already gone.
These are far from tuned lenght headers but are a lot easier to work with. Few pics to follow. Sadly this was all i made and they are already gone.
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headers
Hi Kevin, do you plan on making any more headers? If so when and how much??? They look great!!
Paul UK
Paul UK
Paul the problem is I cant send them to you as I dont have an export licence which came into effect two years ago so. Big problem. You will probably have to get them through Glenwood motors but then im sure they will probably want to attach an engine to them which im sure will bump the price up a bit! Sorry about that unless you know of any one else here who could bring them back for you. The price, cant say here as this is noy a vendor link but its cheaper than the shipping price you would pay. Send me a message on the site mail. Maybe Barry might be sending something over.
Cheers
Cheers
I've had some time to work on this project again so here is a long overdue update
First off, Alfa engineers are bloody amazing. Having worked on lots of other Euro cars over the years, it always amazes me how easy the GTV6 is to work on. I was able to pull the old engine out after only a few hours work!
I decided to install the 24v engine for a trial fitting ... just to make sure that everything fits and also so I can figure out what is missing, what needs to be modified and then start acquiring all the missing bits and pieces needed to make it work (alternator, exhaust, fuel pressure regulator, hoses, heater system, air intake system, throttle linkage GoTech loom routing etc etc).
Side-by-side - things are looking good. I had to transfer the bell housing and starter and reinstall the flywheel in order to trial fit the new engine.
The engine mounts were a pain since Glenwood did not drill out and tap the missing hole needed to fit the GTV6 passenger side engine mount. I can see why once I'd done it myself - not too easy to figure out where to place the hole since the design of the mount precludes using is as a drilling jig (my original plan).
So it’s sitting in place now! It was a lot harder to install than with a 12 v engine and the reason is that the brake booster is too close to the cam cover which made it difficult to install and get the mounts lined up. You can see from the pic that the booster is actually touching the patch on the cam cover where the oil filler used to be. BTW, it seems wise to remove the brake assembly when removing/installing a 24v just because space is a lot more limited and it would probably save time in the long run.
This clearance issue means that I'll have to get a different type of brake booster OR further modify the cam cover so there is enough clearance. I could also potentially ‘modify’ the stock booster with a BFH to make some more space. What are the risks involved with that?
I’d prefer a solution where it’s possible to remove the cam cover for maintenance without disassembling the brake booster … but that might not be feasible.
What do you guys think? Alfetta booster?
Other than this, the driver side header flange might be too close to the framework ... I'll take a closer look at this issue and assess it further tomorrow. The passenger side header is also extremely close to the starter motor.
Cheers,
First off, Alfa engineers are bloody amazing. Having worked on lots of other Euro cars over the years, it always amazes me how easy the GTV6 is to work on. I was able to pull the old engine out after only a few hours work!
I decided to install the 24v engine for a trial fitting ... just to make sure that everything fits and also so I can figure out what is missing, what needs to be modified and then start acquiring all the missing bits and pieces needed to make it work (alternator, exhaust, fuel pressure regulator, hoses, heater system, air intake system, throttle linkage GoTech loom routing etc etc).
Side-by-side - things are looking good. I had to transfer the bell housing and starter and reinstall the flywheel in order to trial fit the new engine.
The engine mounts were a pain since Glenwood did not drill out and tap the missing hole needed to fit the GTV6 passenger side engine mount. I can see why once I'd done it myself - not too easy to figure out where to place the hole since the design of the mount precludes using is as a drilling jig (my original plan).
So it’s sitting in place now! It was a lot harder to install than with a 12 v engine and the reason is that the brake booster is too close to the cam cover which made it difficult to install and get the mounts lined up. You can see from the pic that the booster is actually touching the patch on the cam cover where the oil filler used to be. BTW, it seems wise to remove the brake assembly when removing/installing a 24v just because space is a lot more limited and it would probably save time in the long run.
This clearance issue means that I'll have to get a different type of brake booster OR further modify the cam cover so there is enough clearance. I could also potentially ‘modify’ the stock booster with a BFH to make some more space. What are the risks involved with that?
I’d prefer a solution where it’s possible to remove the cam cover for maintenance without disassembling the brake booster … but that might not be feasible.
What do you guys think? Alfetta booster?
Other than this, the driver side header flange might be too close to the framework ... I'll take a closer look at this issue and assess it further tomorrow. The passenger side header is also extremely close to the starter motor.
Cheers,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
I seem to recall people using the 164 booster in the Milanos when putting in the 24v. My 24v Milano has the ABS MC, and hence no issues with clearing the booster. Check out this link for a pic of Larry's ex 24v Milano (with 164 booster, I think):
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthr ... 24v+milano
Jes
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthr ... 24v+milano
Jes
87 Milano Verde - daily driver - Juliet
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
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- Verde
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- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
If this were my project I might consider getting rid of the power brakes. The car will stop just as fast, and perhaps faster as you can more accuratly modulate the pedal pressure to keep the tires just on the verge of lock up. Judging from past experiences I would guess the increased pedal effort will be minimal.
I had a problem with the booster in mine just after installing my 4 spot brakes - the booster diaphram split when I was bleeding them. I drove for a week or so without the booster and the pedal effort increase was HUGE !
Use an alfetta booster and it will all fit or use a twin master cylinder setup with appropriately sizes.
Use an alfetta booster and it will all fit or use a twin master cylinder setup with appropriately sizes.
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Really? I would think the pedal effort would be much more. How hard is it to get the manual brakes just right, what do you need? Also how hard is it to get the 164 booster to fit, does it bolt right up?
FYI: GTV6 stuff for sale at: http://alfagtv6.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t= ... 2981770509
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- Verde
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- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
I don't know which would be eaiser as I haven't done it on an Alfa. I have done manual brake conversions before in fact because of this exact same problem, the valve cover on a 392 Hemi hitting the power brake booster. I have driven some manual brake conversions that required less pedal pressure than the stock power brake setups. That sounds strange but it was usually because the conversion involved an upgrade from small drums to large disks.