Yeah - I think I'm going to have to get something welded since the periphery of the hole is really close to the edge of the cam cover. The additional port on the lower right side of the cam cover needs to be welded closed.
I also need to get a bracket or something welded on for the idle bypass circuit mechanism.
I also need to get a bracket or something welded on for the idle bypass circuit mechanism.
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Michael, tips - cable tie the pickup sensor behind the alternator bracket, need to block waterpipe on back of motor. I normally pull that pipe out , cut it shorter and weld it closed. Then put back with loctite grey. with regards to exhaust, are both engine mounts same thickness and are they in equal positon. If they are its easier to heat body and tap it in other wise you must take headers off and bolt them down before you heat and bend them , also not to difficult. They should fit as those come off my jig and they clear body by 10mm. Also put studs in bottom flange but not to long because it get difficult to remove the rest of the exhaust because of the angle. Next section should have two flexis in and have bracket to undo near gear lever. Not neccessry but makes it easier.
Great plennum, thats exaclty what I want. Are those your new bearings on the cambelt ?
Great plennum, thats exaclty what I want. Are those your new bearings on the cambelt ?
I want to get the heater to work. Plan is to remove the fitting, weld it up and install a hose barb such that I can plumb in the return hose from the heater (just like the 12v engine).Michael, tips - cable tie the pickup sensor behind the alternator bracket, need to block waterpipe on back of motor. I normally pull that pipe out , cut it shorter and weld it closed. Then put back with loctite grey.
The engine mounts are brand new and I checked the mounting positions. I have to remove the engine one more time so will try bending the manifolds - its a pity because they have been coated already and the heat will probably spoil the finish.with regards to exhaust, are both engine mounts same thickness and are they in equal positon. If they are its easier to heat body and tap it in other wise you must take headers off and bolt them down before you heat and bend them , also not to difficult. They should fit as those come off my jig and they clear body by 10mm.
I'd have to weld these studs in? Is that what you mean? I'm going to have an exhaust shop fabricate everything south of the headers. JJ gave me a couple of generic downpipes but I dont think the angle is right (they are 90 degree pipes) so I'm starting from scratch anyway. Also, I need to have some catalytic converters plumbed in - and make them removable for track use.Also put studs in bottom flange but not to long because it get difficult to remove the rest of the exhaust because of the angle. Next section should have two flexis in and have bracket to undo near gear lever. Not neccessry but makes it easier.
No - those the as supplied by Glenwood.Great plennum, thats exaclty what I want. Are those your new bearings on the cambelt ?
Thanks for the tips!
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Michael, surely the flanges on the headers have thread tapped into them. Dont ever weld studs in. Strip it and then you are in big s!@#$. Maybe a small tac weld on a stud thats splipping on its thread in emergency cases but not on new stuff. If they coated then tap the body in(not ideal but not going to make any difference). My new bearings corroded while the engine stood for a year . Take them off and spin them. Dont clean them with any fliuids(petrol) then they start to make a noise. Look new to me. Dont turn those engines backwards with those tensioners(new or old).
Post a pic of the down pipes JJ sent you. If its the ones im thinking of they need to be cut just after the bend, probaly 150mm. They do work just need to be cut at the correct lenght - not on header side.
Post a pic of the down pipes JJ sent you. If its the ones im thinking of they need to be cut just after the bend, probaly 150mm. They do work just need to be cut at the correct lenght - not on header side.
Michael, I will post pic of where i put flexis in but im not sure where you guys put the cats in. Those down pipes you have are perfect once the flexis are installed(if its the same ones Im thinking of) as this what they were designed for. The flexis here cost the same es the headers themselves hence they were not included and also every person has own ideas where they should be. send me a pic so we can help you get this baby on the road. Its the most awsome experience revving these 3.0 24v motors up to 6500-700rpm on the track in a gtv. You gonna love it.
- Attachments
-
- adjustabletorsion.jpg (69.16 KiB) Viewed 6762 times
Hi:
Kevin - I have attached a pic of the downpipes. The OD is 63mm.
I'm really looking forward to driving my Alfa again
Also, a pic of the supplied plug leads. Since they are too short to reach all the plugs (I want to install the coil packs in the passenger side cowl, in the area where the multi-relay is now) I want to get some replacements.
Does anyone know if there is a Magnecor kit available - are the plug leads for the 164LS the correct length? What type of spark plug boot does it need (correct length accoring to the depth of the spark plug well).
Thanks,
Kevin - I have attached a pic of the downpipes. The OD is 63mm.
I'm really looking forward to driving my Alfa again
![Exclamation :!:](./images/smilies/icon_exclaim.gif)
Also, a pic of the supplied plug leads. Since they are too short to reach all the plugs (I want to install the coil packs in the passenger side cowl, in the area where the multi-relay is now) I want to get some replacements.
Does anyone know if there is a Magnecor kit available - are the plug leads for the 164LS the correct length? What type of spark plug boot does it need (correct length accoring to the depth of the spark plug well).
Thanks,
- Attachments
-
- ExhaustDownPipes.jpg (54.72 KiB) Viewed 6648 times
-
- plugLeads.jpg (65.32 KiB) Viewed 6646 times
Last edited by Michael on Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Sorry, those down pipes are not mine but you can still use them. Just cut them after the bend and use flexi. Did your headers have a spare set set of bottom flanges attached to them. These would be for the down pipes. If you know some one here I can give you a pair as I cant post any thing overseas. I will attach pic as these are from the laser company even though headers are different.
- Attachments
-
- IMG_2430.JPG (68.37 KiB) Viewed 7303 times
Sorry to do this here..Zman,have mailed you a coupla times..no reply..Pm me here with a working mail addy,thanks bud.Zamani wrote:Well, at least you're almost there. Still waiting for my Bazza special plenum. alfaengines AT gmail , where art thou.
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
-
- Gold
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:55 pm
- Location: Marysville, WA. USA