ALFAGTV6.COM

Just read through this whole thread, some of the best car porn ever, are there any more updates to this story ?

Hi guys, ... I´m back after more than one year off !!!

I can tell you this year was my worst since I was born, ... I´ve tried to be self empolyed with my own workshop in vienna but it didn´t work, or better let´s say it was horrorable.

I´ve lost a lot of private money and at least I could sell it or better make a cheap gift to the new owner. Rental costs and all other costs were much to high so I couldn´t earn enough money to live !

O.K. enough with those old problems, ... my "New Life" has started now and I´ve got a very good new job in my old company in a new business type. We are producing very flexible lightweight Photovoltaik modules using the construction technique of Diamond Aircraft planes.

Now I will hopefully find the time again to continue with my 24V conversion for my Alfa 75 Race car.

Sorry for being that long absent, guys !

Many greetings from Austria
Wolfgang

We all have our ups and downs Wolfgang, no need to apologize for anything! Don't worry about finishing engine work in time, there is no time limit for these things! Our economy here in Greece has been going from bad to worse, I'm lucky I finished my engine! Toys can wait, family obligations always come first!

Jim K.

Welcome back Wolfgang . Look forward to see the continuation of your project when you get the time . A lots been happening with the 24v motors in 3.0 and 3.2 . It will be interesting to see th dyno results with those cams and pistons you're using .
Cheers
Kevin

Alfa 75 Racer wrote:

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Here you can see that with this modification I have found a few Milimeters more clearance.

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just to resurrect an old thread but I was thinking
would a 24 valve 164 waterpump not fit the 166 block then could you use the 164 24 valve thermostat housing thus saving all the mods to the housing etc

Hi Daryl , the 164 water pump cannot fit on the later 24v motors . However their is a solution like Wolfgang showed by modifying the thermostat housing to fit . I found it was a lot easier to laser cut and entirely new flange with extra wall thickness as the 12v housing needs to be positioned about 12mm further away and 6 mm more to the left . This allows you to then machine it out once you have welded It up to get good water flow again .
I made a few of the these water pump conversion thermostat housings a while a ago . I will have to have look ig you're still interested . Drop me a pm .
The pics will show how the top of the housing has a different shape and bolt centre to the 164 and 116 series 12v type . Only one hole matches and even then it's still as mentioned above way out of position .
On the newer 24v motors the idler pulley is much lower than on the 164 to give more wrap of cambelt around the pulleys and hence this would interfere in the thermostat if was in the front .
Pics show newer 24v motor water pump and 12v conversion . A newer water pump gasket shows the difference in the pic .
It's so much easier to bring the water out the front than bring the pipes around the back of engine as it's a nightmare if you want to change thermostats or fix any leaks as you need to take engine half out as their literally no space when mounted in the GTV or 75s . Obviously so much easier in the fwd cars . Also if you skim the heads to a much higher compression over the 11:1 mark the heads get closer which affects the fitment of the original water pump housing set up .

Very nice car.

Doesn't matter what car you want to compete with. A good illustration of how much the overall racing pace has moved on and how tougher it is to get to the pointy end in terms of power. (leaving variables like driving skills aside). Frankly, that is how it should be otherwise we would all be driving in the Historics class without any advancement on factory pace that kills off innovation other than legal refinement.

As always there are other opinions..