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Drill and tap a new hole for the bleed screw? It's cast iron, right?

I got the bleed nipple on the top , but I did think of drilling and tapping but that's a bit tricky as you have shape the bottom of drilled hole to semi match nipple and drill a smaller hole inside a 5mm hole. Nah.
I still gots some more checks to do and if it all points here I will puts some real calipers on back and go larger to help dissipate heat. I still have ventilated discs with almn bellls of standard size.
Just traded some parts and got a new gearbox cooler and pump with inline filter.
I must just check the red line oil passes through filter when cold otherwise will only actuate pump after two laps etc . You get a few types of inline filters from AP racing so will expirement first. I have seen a few chaps pop gearbox coolers when cold .

Aaaaargghhh , still no brakes after today but I know where the problem is. It's trapped air in the rear. I can take calipers off to bleed but that's not long term solution. Just friggin irritating
. Should have been testing set up two weeks ago

kevin wrote: It's trapped air in the rear.

I know an easy solution to trapped air in the rear...

I know an easy solution to trapped air in the rear...

You can't use that one though.....The Greekster has a patent on it!

That's so funny, I have only just realised what I wrote - out of context. I was about to edit that "butt" I will leave it to humor those that suffer with similar sense of humor -
Md.
And by the way that bubble is still trapped after another friggin afternoon trying to release it. I'm just going to have to put another nipple on or go outboard once and for all - the dam brakes I'm talking about.

i started finishing off other small things on the car hoping my brakes will some how fix themeselves. With my new roll cage I had to change my steering wheel so i can actually work under pedal box in some sort of safe manner without breaking a rib ( again ).
Also had to put back the mandatory breather overflow bottles for water and oil. they supposed to be 1.5l .
My engine stay is in on bushings . the brackets is riveted to body . should be fine as its on compression side. This will now compliment the straight prop etc from prevoius posts.

MD , im still waiting for my small alternator

New idea : I have a few broken clutch housings over the years so I thought while im making my new clutch unit I was going to order a heavy duty race housing from UK but then the price scared me so my new idea
I take one clutch housing , bead plast it then take it to my composite guys to apply an epoxy resin with fiberglass on the the outside only . Apparently almn and epoxy resin have similiar coeficients of exp and contractrion combined with the key affect when laminating the housing it should Not seperate or debond. All my units have broken in the same place so this should work as the four 12mm bolts that attach housing to box will go through new composite shell.
Please guys shoot this down where you see problems.

I think it's an awesome idea! Besides, the only real way that you'll find out is by trying it.
Fiberglass's strength to weight ratio is impressive to say the least!
Perhaps look at vacuum bagging it if/when you do it to help get the bond as tight as possible and keep it there as the resin cures.

The problem is that the difference in E-module will make all the load go into the siffer part first (alu) long before the bendy bits even take the smallest part of the load. Sorry, but I think it's a waste of time.

Mats , i hear you on that aspect but the way i was looking at it was the epoxy resin creates a cross brace effect betweeen the webs where it breaks and that will give it its strentgh. As long as i can achieve a bond and it will go i to there autoclave then i think it will work.
Initially inwas going to weld in extra webs but maybe i might use almn bracing in the resin as well.
Lets see where it fails this time. It mightbe in a totally different place where the epoxy fiberglass adds no structural strenght as you do suggest.

Is this the ultimate gearbox to stay within homologation for historic racing for transaxle alfas
http://www.hewland.com/svga/sl.html

Kick ass!!!

I have a feeling the Hewland is going to cost more than a FEW converted and modified 24V transaxle Alfas.