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Well guys ; this is a seriously sweet driving car ! With reference to my previous post on Engine Rebuild information to Kevin and Barry , the Engine rebuild and replacement of various chassis parts , my 3.0 is now running beautifully ! And after 1500 kilometres I can add that she is as Feisty as can be and way quicker than before. Keeping in mind I am comparing a 27 year old car to a virtually new car now ! Uhumm , Rose tinted specs and all.

The work was carried out at Auto Azzurri in CapeTown , by the owner George La'batte , and a fantastic piece of work was done by him too. I can highly recommend his services if you need anything Alfa done in CapeTown South Africa.

The objective is to keep the car stock as much as possible , a full engine rebuild was done with new sleeves , complete cylinder head overhaul , light port job. Included were a new oil pump water pump and overhaul of the complete cooling system , driveline and braking system with new discs as required. Any parts out of spec or worn were to be replaced , the starter and altenator were overhauled at the same time.

Chassis work was limited to any worn out components on the suspension side , the brakes , and de-dion inclusive.

One thing to say ; YEHAAAAA , This baby rocks !!!

Next up will be a complete repaint to stock , and I need to source some interior parts. I will be putting in a set of Koni Sports , and the wheels will be replaced while I have the originals refurbished and possibly widened.

Happy driving guys !

Hi deonne , great to have that carbi gtv on the road. If yougo wider on those compo offsets it will catch on arches and spoiler. There are some 8 j dishes still floating around. Regarding suspension and trying to keep it standard then.
What you need is a set of 28mm torsion bars with those konis . Some gtv3.0 had them . Really makes a difference .
Post some video clips . Drop me a pm with your email please.
Do you know where george sourced pistons from ?

kevin wrote:Hi deonne , great to have that carbi gtv on the road. If yougo wider on those compo offsets it will catch on arches and spoiler. There are some 8 j dishes still floating around. Regarding suspension and trying to keep it standard then.
What you need is a set of 28mm torsion bars with those konis . Some gtv3.0 had them . Really makes a difference .
Post some video clips . Drop me a pm with your email please.
Do you know where george sourced pistons from ?

Hi Kevin ; pm sent !
I have the 28mm bars on my car ; koni's to be added this month. As far as the wheels go ; I want to get the standard turbine style wheels widened as you did , the wheels which Barry now has.

I have procured a set of new / old style Borbet A's in 15 inch 7J in the interim as they were quite cheap , just need to fit the rubber when I want to get my originals refurbed. Unfortunately I no longer have the compo's , they were not use-able and I sold them to a friend who had plans for them.

As far as the pistons go ; George used the originals as they were still in great shape. He did give me a choice as far as using a set of new pistons for the 3 litre 166 engine but I declined after seeing what condition my originals were in. For what its worth , the only reason we needed new sleeves was because the originals were corroded in certain area's which was not surprising as the car stood for 9 years or so of its life before I bought it.

I will post video when able , gave the car a good run up Franshoek this weekend and she is really going well. I have done 3000 kilo's so far , oil consumption has settled nicely and she is reving out to 6500 rpm still making good power. I would like to find a nice double intake filter housing somewhere tho as I feel she needs to breathe more.

Have a good one !!!

Hey deone , i have found an original carbi airbox with dual inlets if you want . Just send someone around to fetch - no charge .
Cheers

Hi Kevin ; man thats great , thanks very much for your kind offer ! Please email me your address or where it can be collected and what times would suit you , I will arrange from my side !!!
I currently have 140 main jets in which seem good across the rpm range and loading , will I have to re - jet for this box ? I am not sure what the carbies are supposed to have in stock form in terms of main jets.

I checked my torsion bars for size again , for some reason thought there were 28's on there but they are indeed 23.5 ; at least ; thats what I could measure under the car with my vernier in the parking lot. Received and fitted the koni's last week , somewhat astounded. I thought my car handled pretty good given its age , but its in a different league now and it is definately due mostly to the improvement coming from the rear. The fronts on one full turn from soft and virtually identical to my stockers , but the rears at 1/2 turn from full soft are substantially stiffer in compression compared to the stockers. And my stockers are not too worn out given that they are 5 years old and only done 40k kilo's.

This car steers for a change , no more understeer , went round my favorite set of twisties to test and nearly landed up on someones lawn 10 metres before the corner 'cos she turned in properly for a change.

I am a very happy puppy , gonna done some miles and then play some more after they have settled

Hi Deonne drop an email as im around this weekend and set up time or call on 0716823009

Hi Kevin , tried to post previously but struggling to get pics attached. At any rate , thanks very much for that airbox , I should have it in my hands today !

A little feedback concerning progress with my Baby , done about 7000 ks now and seems nicely loose and generally running like a good one. Very happy with the engine rebuild and the car will now pull 6500rpm in 5th on 205/55/15s just too darn easily , gets there very quickly too compared to before the rebuild. I am running on unleaded pump fuel with the stock alfa6 airbox which I think kills the top end pull above 5800 rpm , torque is really nice and linear too.

I have modded the distributer as per JK's book and picked up a noticeable improvement in response and crispness which was not there before , running 18 degrees static timing with 36 degrees max , no ping or detonation on standard compression , standard 3.0 cams ( Not sure , may have group 1 cams fitted ) Fuel consumption as stabilised to about 12 kilo's to the litre. Nice man

The car is now on 205/55/15 Potenza re002 Adrenalin's , very nice tyre for fast road and the koni's have literally transformed the handling. She turns in sharp , little to no understeer and the ride is acceptable too ! I suppose changing out all the bushes and suspension rubbers has helped too.

Needless to say , I am over the moon with this car Very happy with the outcome. Next up is a full paint and interior , as close to stock as possible . ofcourse !!!

Happy driving Gents

Car looks great , the air box I sent will have to be painted . The air box is satin black while the lid is a dark blue/grey . Good thing I had to pack up my garage as I have found so much stuff to pass on to the guys who need it, otherwise it just gets thrown away . If you looking for a genuine 3.0 front spoiler , there is one at AK classics . Somehwere around R900 bucks . I think Joemart might scoop that up for his car .
Thatmfuel consumption is rediculous
Can you send me a pics of the body tags as I'm trying to put a full register and work out Alfa SA numbering system . You can email me pics if don't want to post on forum .
Car should have two tags . Don't panic if one . It's middle coding should be 116 73 01 . One or two might be different depending on year which I will work out from your last three digits of your vin number . Check your pulley and see what number is punched on as well .
Your engine should start with 019 but again don't panic if 016 . Sorry for all the info needed .

Hey Kevin , saw your post about Konrads race machine and thought I might let you have some pics with regards what I had to do to sort my carbs out properly.

The PO was the second owner , he gave up trying to stop the carbs leaking fuel , after a while every single fuel delivery hose would slowly work its way loose and you would end up having to tweak all the bolts etc. When I got the car I rebuilt the carbs with a kit from eurocarb , but then found when I had them in pieces that a gorilla had stripped out many of the original treads , including pulling the inserts that the filter body cap screws screw in to.

I , in time , removed the carbs again , did some remedial work ! The attachment point for the fuel lines were all drilled and helicoiled with m6x1 coils , I used stainless cap screws and wirelock them as per the pic. No more fuel leaks !

The inserts which the filter body hardware screw into are a m8x0.75 thread , these were carefully drilled and tapped to accept helicoils and the inserts refitted. One small mod here , the accelerator pump nozzle needs to be trimmed / filed down on one side as the helicoil takes up a little space in its hole. ( I need two nozzles as two of mine were found broken when removing them for the rebuild , the little end which holds the gauze filter was still stuck in the carbs , took a couple of hours to get out ! I need to ask Barry if he doesn’t have 2 nozzles for me. The broken ones still work quite well though,no different to the others )

At the coast I found that setting up the carbs to give 25/26 inches of mercury at 900-950 rpm idle resulted in the best driveability and fuel consumption , balancing them as you know requires patience and skill , but when they are good you can leave them be for a long time. At least between valve clearance adjustments.

Your filter housing is going off to the engineering works for a slight mod at the second inlet , I want to run a K&N on there also.

Cheers

Next pic of wire locking on the cap screws that attach the filter body to the carbs

I can recommend 28mm torsion bars and 200lb rear springs. Still quite streetable but much better roll and pitch control and you can even drive it fast on a bumpy road and not worry so much about hitting the bumpstops all the time. I run koni yellow also and they are almost 'man' enough to control the spring rate - bilsteins are better apparently.