3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
I'm not sure if all the 24Vs have this or just the 3.2s, but mine has this heat exchanger:
Obviously this has to come off so that an engine mount can go on. After removing it, I found that the 'center' hole for the oil filter is an 18mm unthreaded hole:
What has everyone else done to facilitate connecting up an oil filter or relocator plate here? I am hesitant to tap a thread there if I don't have to as I don't want stray metal filings in the oil system...
Obviously this has to come off so that an engine mount can go on. After removing it, I found that the 'center' hole for the oil filter is an 18mm unthreaded hole:
What has everyone else done to facilitate connecting up an oil filter or relocator plate here? I am hesitant to tap a thread there if I don't have to as I don't want stray metal filings in the oil system...
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
The risk is not the steel filings as you can put grease in there. The Risk is tapping square as if your slightly skew the filter will not sit properly and wham on start up - all your oil is on the floor. The thing is some filters the O ring projects more which is neccesary as the steel of the filter will catch the block first on that set up and wham all the oil on the floor on start up.
Check thread
.viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2648
Also there are two types of threads that Alfa use . 164 type and 166 type. A 166 filter will screw on to the 164 thread and feel ok to the average mechanic when fitting (no space above steering rack in 164) and it will come off after a few minutes. Ironically the 164 has the 166 thread on the inner of the exchanger.
You must decide which filter you gonna use and check your threads if you are going to make a ''stud'' 16 3/8 is one type.
Check thread
.viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2648
Also there are two types of threads that Alfa use . 164 type and 166 type. A 166 filter will screw on to the 164 thread and feel ok to the average mechanic when fitting (no space above steering rack in 164) and it will come off after a few minutes. Ironically the 164 has the 166 thread on the inner of the exchanger.
You must decide which filter you gonna use and check your threads if you are going to make a ''stud'' 16 3/8 is one type.
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
My advice is to have one uniform thread like the one on the left in the pic. The top one prevents the filter screwing on properly. Once tapped add loctite to new insert. Also check protrusion of insert - stud as if it protrudes to far into the filter there is no gap for the oil to go into it and once more you will have an oil filter explosion on the floor.
Basically three checks. 1) filter you gonna use 2) protrusion of o ring 3) depth of insert to allow oil flow.
Basically three checks. 1) filter you gonna use 2) protrusion of o ring 3) depth of insert to allow oil flow.
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Thanks Kevin, very helpful as usual.
My engine is out of a GT, and the heat exchanger has a 3/4 -16 thread for the oil filter. I am happy to keep this thread as it is the same as many Nissans (which i also like to play with) so it is easy to get a relocator block for.
I stole a fitting out of a Nissan block hoping to be able to use it, it is similar to the one you recomend but it switches from 3/4 -16 to M18x1.5 part way along (the nissans have an M18x1.5 hole in the block it screws into). I could probably cut the M18 section off and use it.
You are correct it will be very important to make sure the thread is square.
My engine is out of a GT, and the heat exchanger has a 3/4 -16 thread for the oil filter. I am happy to keep this thread as it is the same as many Nissans (which i also like to play with) so it is easy to get a relocator block for.
I stole a fitting out of a Nissan block hoping to be able to use it, it is similar to the one you recomend but it switches from 3/4 -16 to M18x1.5 part way along (the nissans have an M18x1.5 hole in the block it screws into). I could probably cut the M18 section off and use it.
You are correct it will be very important to make sure the thread is square.
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
After you do that you can put on the 164 'S' heat exchanger it fits with the mount.
I have one when I put the 'S' in my 75 I think they are a must. as they heat up the oil. and I think cold oil does more damage then too hot oil ever did. And with the large amount of oil that Alfa have it needs some help to come up to temp.
and it also cools too as the temp it locked to the coolant temp..
I have one when I put the 'S' in my 75 I think they are a must. as they heat up the oil. and I think cold oil does more damage then too hot oil ever did. And with the large amount of oil that Alfa have it needs some help to come up to temp.
and it also cools too as the temp it locked to the coolant temp..
1987 black Milano Verde
1972 White spider 2000 Veloce
1972 White spider 2000 Veloce
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Anyone got one of these engine mount/oil filter housings they want to get rid of? I've just picked up a 24valver for my 164 but the mount has been broken off it...
Oil lines would be handy too
Oil lines would be handy too
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Interesting..my 164 engine had the older(?) style cooler adaptor which threaded on at the main hole ...one piece stainless unit..
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
I successfully adapted a 2002 3.0 engine to my 1995 164 based setup. On the newer engine, the central oil pickup is recessed 2.5 mm. I had a batch of adapters machined. The 164 oil filter mount now works with the newer engine.
If anyone needs to convert a newer engine to run an older oil filter housing, let me know. I have the adapters for $15 each.
Ken
If anyone needs to convert a newer engine to run an older oil filter housing, let me know. I have the adapters for $15 each.
Ken
Last edited by kens on Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
What thread did you make the block side of the adaptor?kens wrote:I successfully adapted a 2002 3.0 engine to my 1995 164 based setup. On the newer engine, the central oil pickup is recessed 5 mm. I had a batch of adapters machined. The 164 oil filter mount now works with the newer engine.
If anyone needs to convert a newer engine to run an older oil filter housing, let me know. I have the adapters for $15 each.
Ken
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Ben
I'm putting a 164 24V into my Milano. I have the lines and adapter. But shipping won't be cheap. And I need to check it's condition too.
I'm putting a 164 24V into my Milano. I have the lines and adapter. But shipping won't be cheap. And I need to check it's condition too.
Dr. Alban
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
I haven't had the chance to crawl under my 164, but the parts manual pic I've got of the 12 valve 164 mount bracket suggests it basically comes straight down from the traditional mounting points on the block - and would be out of alignment with where the GT one in the pic up in the original post is... does your 24valve 164 unit have the mount/shaft support in the same spot as the pic? or is it Different? I'm starting to think i'll have to convert to the 12 valve style setup which will be a bit of a pita.
Thanks Z.
Thanks Z.
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
My adapter is useful only on the original photo where there are no threads. The adapter fits into the early 24V oil housing, sealing with an o-ring. The adapter provides a 2.5 mm extension to fill the gap from the block to the filter housing. An existing gasket fits between the adapter and block. AFAIK, only the late 1998-2007 engines do not have a threaded fitting on the block.la_strega_nera wrote:What thread did you make the block side of the adaptor?
My 164 24V engine came with the o-ring fitting shown in the pic above of various threaded fittings. I have this same fitting on a 1997 2.0 V6 12V turbo engine. Another reference point, with minor modification, a 1993 12V 3.0 engine will fit the aluminum housing from the turbo engine. Minor mods is just adding the o-ring fitting, drill and tap a few M8 mount points.
Alfa used many filter variations, yet all filters or filter housings mount onto the same location.
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Ahhh, ok, I get it.
I guess i'm not going to know what I've got untill I pull the adaptor - mine's a 98 model 24valve, but non euro 2 so no cats in the headers.
I guess i'm not going to know what I've got untill I pull the adaptor - mine's a 98 model 24valve, but non euro 2 so no cats in the headers.
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Be aware that the oil filter housing / bearing support is a different part if the engine originally mated to an automatic transmission. Same casting, yet, these parts are machined differently for usage in an automatic or manual transmissions.
This reference is of value only where the engine is to continue usage in a FWD. Or, if the FWD assembly is used in a mid-engine car.
This reference is of value only where the engine is to continue usage in a FWD. Or, if the FWD assembly is used in a mid-engine car.
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Re: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
Ok, so how are they different?
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)