What size socket?
Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:01 am
What size socket is needed to take the crank pully off of the 2.5 engine?
Same for the 164 12v engine?
Same for the 164 12v engine?
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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 2:04 pm
If memory serves me, 1&5/8" or a 41mm for the 2.5 and 3.0 75 motor, I guess it would be the same for the 3.0 164 motor.
Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:38 pm
Yes, 41mm is correct and the 164 3.0L is the same as the 2.5.
David
David
Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 7:06 pm
Yes and yes. (just in case you needed additional affirmation jake 
) Although you'll probably have a hard time finding a 41 mm socket locally, so go for the 1 5/8. I saw one at Sears a while back. Also, a 1 5/8 will be 3/4 drive, so if you don't have one, you'll obviously need the corresponding ratchet. Damn I love buying new tools...I'm gonna go play with my new V-6 cam tool that finally came in this week.
) Although you'll probably have a hard time finding a 41 mm socket locally, so go for the 1 5/8. I saw one at Sears a while back. Also, a 1 5/8 will be 3/4 drive, so if you don't have one, you'll obviously need the corresponding ratchet. Damn I love buying new tools...I'm gonna go play with my new V-6 cam tool that finally came in this week.Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 8:39 am
yayyy, new tools for jake!!!
I already have a 3/4 drive. The grandfather was a mechanic for delta/northeastern and back then you had to own all your tools. So now my hanger is equal to a 60's-80's hanger at logan airport.
Its a wonderful thing.
So i have the tools, now how the hell do i get it off!?>!? Im trying to switch the crackshaft pullies from the 2.5 to my 3.0. Help anyone?
I already have a 3/4 drive. The grandfather was a mechanic for delta/northeastern and back then you had to own all your tools. So now my hanger is equal to a 60's-80's hanger at logan airport.
Its a wonderful thing. So i have the tools, now how the hell do i get it off!?>!? Im trying to switch the crackshaft pullies from the 2.5 to my 3.0. Help anyone?
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 9:48 am
A big F'n impact wrench, but the car in 1st gear, pull the parking brake and have at it, if the engine is still in the car. Plus you will need to pull the radiator, lossen the hold down on the AC cond. so you can move it out of the way, remove the front spoiler and get an extension. You might think about replacing the main seal while you are there.
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 2:56 pm
Lets say the two engines in question are on dollies and not in the car. How do i do it then?
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:39 pm
Why change the pully man? Is there a reason for changing? I kept the 164 krank pully on mine.
Seb
Seb
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 1:38 am
Jacob,
I use a piece of angle iron drilled to take 2 flywheel bolts and 2 holes of the bell housing holes. Bolt it up tight and there's no way the crankshaft can turn. I've done this while the engine is on an engine stand.
I might be able to take a couple of photos on a spare motor if you need to see it.
David
I use a piece of angle iron drilled to take 2 flywheel bolts and 2 holes of the bell housing holes. Bolt it up tight and there's no way the crankshaft can turn. I've done this while the engine is on an engine stand.
I might be able to take a couple of photos on a spare motor if you need to see it.
David
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 4:11 am
That's easy, just use the big F'n impact wrench, if you don't have one, try un-bending the tab on the pully nut that locks it in place, (I think there is one or two on the pully nut, I know they have them in the trans and on the watts center), then have someone use a big wrench on one of the flywheel bolts to keep the motor from spinning while you turn the pully bolt. Or the angle iron trick should work, maybe even a vise grip on the flywheel that will hold itself against one of the stand to engine mounts, but this may bugger up the flywheel a little.