new type tensioner
Hi,
I'm about to convert my 2.5L to the new type tensioner. I have ordered the new tensioner from IAP and they sent an installation description with the part. Following the description i should remove the long stud in the block that used to fasten the hydraulic belttensioner. Next, it says i should install part 608-97506 in the hole in the block with threadlocker. So now to my question: What kind of partnumber is this ? It doesn't appear on IAP's website and my local Alfadealer said it was not a alfa partnumber either. Do you guys have a source for this part ?
I'm about to convert my 2.5L to the new type tensioner. I have ordered the new tensioner from IAP and they sent an installation description with the part. Following the description i should remove the long stud in the block that used to fasten the hydraulic belttensioner. Next, it says i should install part 608-97506 in the hole in the block with threadlocker. So now to my question: What kind of partnumber is this ? It doesn't appear on IAP's website and my local Alfadealer said it was not a alfa partnumber either. Do you guys have a source for this part ?
Peab - working from memory this would be the allen head stud which serves to block the original oil-feed hole so that oil can't come out.It should be part of the kit.
Follow the instruction VERY carefully.Pay particular attention to the recommendations re ambient temperature during installation and the tensioning adjustment must be done EXACTLY as described.Overtorqueing the tensioner can break a poorly engineered spring which can lead to catastrophic failure.
Follow the instruction VERY carefully.Pay particular attention to the recommendations re ambient temperature during installation and the tensioning adjustment must be done EXACTLY as described.Overtorqueing the tensioner can break a poorly engineered spring which can lead to catastrophic failure.
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1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
I think there are two things going on here, the oil feed through the long stud now uses a none-hollow stud in the hole, apply thread lock and clean the threads in the block to remove all oil so the thread lock works. Then on the larger oil return hole, you actually have to cut threads into the block for the plug to screw in to, be careful with this as not to get metal into the block while cutting the treads.
Does anyone have the Alfacentro link with pictures for this procedure, the site was very useful. Good Luck!
Does anyone have the Alfacentro link with pictures for this procedure, the site was very useful. Good Luck!
hmm.. my kit didn't have this special stud included. So now i have to find this elsewhere then. Will pay my alfa-dealer a visit too see if they can get it for me. Btw. my engine has been partially modified by previous owner, so the oil holes have already been plugged. But it was still running the old type tensioner, without any oil passing through it anymore. So it was operating with the spring tightening the belt only, no de-tensioning. i have been driving in this condition for 5 years, without any mishaps.
I think my advice to you is fill it with grease and leave it alone! I think that is the ideal setup!
http://www.alfacentro.com/tech/tensioner/index.html
This is the link, it should help you if you decide otherwise.
http://www.alfacentro.com/tech/tensioner/index.html
This is the link, it should help you if you decide otherwise.
Thanks for the link, Sam. From the pictures in the article the special stud i miss was shown. Didn't look to complicated, so today i decided to use a few hours on manufacturing a replica. Used a leftover finethread M10 bolt and made some regular M8 threads in the other end. Result was acceptable, so i will use this now.
My old modified hydraulic tensioner has an unknown milage on it. I'm thinking that it is better to use a brand new mechanical tensioner than this old stuff, so i will proceed with the fitment as described in the article.
One problem i have is that the fitment guide calls for an ambient temperature above 15deg Celcius during adjustment. In my garage i have temperatures in the range 8-10 now... Waiting to the spring comes would break my timeschedule here completely. Anyone who knows how much a cold climate affects the adjusting of these tensioners ? Should i perhaps leave the alignment marks a bit offset in this condition ?
My old modified hydraulic tensioner has an unknown milage on it. I'm thinking that it is better to use a brand new mechanical tensioner than this old stuff, so i will proceed with the fitment as described in the article.
One problem i have is that the fitment guide calls for an ambient temperature above 15deg Celcius during adjustment. In my garage i have temperatures in the range 8-10 now... Waiting to the spring comes would break my timeschedule here completely. Anyone who knows how much a cold climate affects the adjusting of these tensioners ? Should i perhaps leave the alignment marks a bit offset in this condition ?
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- Verde
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- Que Boludo
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That’s just ridicules!!
Shop temp bla,bla… this item is useless! using a cheap ass spring.
Fill it up with grease and forget about it, I have had it on for years and never had any problems.
Shop temp bla,bla… this item is useless! using a cheap ass spring.
Fill it up with grease and forget about it, I have had it on for years and never had any problems.
I maka de list, you Justa geta the parts - OK! Wise words from the great master Toni Baloney – Ginger Fingers.
Not following your good advise
i installed the new tensioner yesterday. So far all seems well. HAd to try a quople of times to get the marks aligned, as the tension tended to offset the alignement a bit.
Since my old hydraulic tensioner was modified with plugged oilpassages, it didn't feel right to put it back on, as it doesn't perform any detensioning anymore.

Since my old hydraulic tensioner was modified with plugged oilpassages, it didn't feel right to put it back on, as it doesn't perform any detensioning anymore.
- Dennis
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Peab, you just had the best working tensioner there is. Plugged oil passages means the previous owner did his homework. The new style tensioner is CRAP! How do I know? Because I had 3 failures in one summer! Luckily for me it only skipped one tooth every time.(and I did follow all procedures with the install described by AR).
I rebuilt my old tensioner, plugged the passages and filled it with grease. Tension is always perfect, even with a hot engine and I don't have to worry about my tensioner failing. Most of us have been driving these cars for years and have experience with this crappy new tensioner, we warn you out of experience and prevent you making a mistake we have made already.
Damn, now I sound like a schoolteacher........
I rebuilt my old tensioner, plugged the passages and filled it with grease. Tension is always perfect, even with a hot engine and I don't have to worry about my tensioner failing. Most of us have been driving these cars for years and have experience with this crappy new tensioner, we warn you out of experience and prevent you making a mistake we have made already.
Damn, now I sound like a schoolteacher........

'81 GTV6 3.0 QV
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring
I'm about to install a 75 3.0-engine in my GTV6 and I definitely want to keep my hydraulic de-tensioner after everything I've read about the mechanical one. The 3.0-engine is now equipped with the mechanical and therefor it's already plugged.
How much grease is supposed to be used to fill the hydraulic de-tensioner. Just a little for lubrication??
How much grease is supposed to be used to fill the hydraulic de-tensioner. Just a little for lubrication??