ALFAGTV6.COM

Barry: are you using standard hardware? Surely you are nowhere near yield with 88Nm?

Pressure check heads is professional job..they have some kind of dye for leaks in coolant as well as mount for the head chamber testing

example:

http://pcwww.liv.ac.uk/~goodhew/Student ... esting.htm


I think there is an Alfa tool for checking cylinder heights, but I am sure you can get a calibrated block and do it yourself...

Hmm.... you can turn the liner easliy eh? I think it is one of your liner o-rings. That's why the head gasket looks ok I think. I had a slow leak before but it was small enough that I could use one of those alumaseal things.

Hello guys,

Now after few weeks off i tried some different tests on my engine to locate this bloody leak and still nothing !!

First test:

8 Bars in the coolant circuit filled with water + fluorescine and try to reveal leaks with black light, oil pan removed to see the sleeve base and o'ring area => NOTHING !

Second test:

8 Bars in the combustion chamber, (crankshaft locked) and look in the coolant to see any potential bubble => NOTHING !

I looked everywhere to detect any crack, any defect, everything is ok.

I disassembled again the heads and there is a lot of "mayonnaise" stucked on the sleeves, means the leak is great.

Disassembled the water pump as well, nothing except mayonnaise of course.

It drives me crazy !

Hi FredCsl.
what are the news ? did you solve your problem ?


i had some test when torquin heads.

1st i torque them to 25nm.

after, two options tried.

- torque them to 88nm its seems to be 110°
- torque them at the 240° says by alfa, and it looks like to make 140nm.

a noticeable difference...

Mats,Fred,std hardware-88Nm`s torque.When I use my rings I will go as high as 100Nm but no more..If I have problems after 100Nm,I use the ARP stuff.That kills any problems dead.

This all on Victor Reins or Gaurni Auto gaskets only.

Mats,what do you torque v6?

I have honestly never torqued down a v6 head, so I will tell you after it happens.

Hello guys,

I still have one head off but i think i found the problem.

The plug on the block which drives the oil in the head, you know the one with a o'ring, was not matching correctly in the head hole.

I discovered that by putting the head on the block without gasket.

I put a light behing and saw that a lot of rays were going thrue.

So i decided to bore just 0.1mm more the hole in the head and now everything is matching correctly. I'll put more paste to avoid leakage.

Before when i was torquing the head, i torqued on the plug and not on the gasket surface which obviously let the oil and the water going everywhere.

I don't know if i am very clear

Regarding the torque value, i can not go with the 240° i am too afraid to brake a stud. So i prefer going for 110 Nm which seems to me a good value for this stud diameter.

Hello guys,

I still have one head off but i think i found the problem.

The plug on the block which drives the oil in the head, you know the one with a o'ring, was not matching correctly in the head hole.

I discovered that by putting the head on the block without gasket.

I put a light behing and saw that a lot of rays were going thrue.

So i decided to bore just 0.1mm more the hole in the head and now everything is matching correctly. I'll put more paste to avoid leakage.

Before when i was torquing the head, i torqued on the plug and not on the gasket surface which obviously let the oil and the water going everywhere.

I don't know if i am very clear

Regarding the torque value, i can not go with the 240° i am too afraid to brake a stud. So i prefer going for 110 Nm which seems to me a good value for this stud diameter.

oops it seems i clicked too fast ...

I really hope you got it solved.....makes me feel like my car is worth keeping