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John in Denver · Post by **John in Denver** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 6:39 pm

Strange that you say a hard right turn makes the problem worse.... so it could be a combination mechanical/electrical problem. As you've thoroughly checked the engine compartment, how about the battery feed. I remember someone posting a note on this board some time ago about changing his exhaust system and finding that the main feed cable from the battery at the back was frayed almost to nothing as it passed over his exhaust pipe. I've been a bit too afraid to look at mine. That might also explain why your problem gets worse when the engine is hot. Worth looking at?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 7:12 pm

It may have been mine...I wrote a post on battery cable replacement a few years ago....

will check cables again tomorrow.

Mats: Still don't feel like replacing the harness quite yet, although I do have a spare milano harness and all the accessories...

I tested the fuel pump pressures of the old and new pumps and both were correct...and then I put the brand new pump into the car.

Zman: system voltage hovers around 12v..usually just a hair under 12.

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:20 am

x-rad wrote:It may have been mine...I wrote a post on battery cable replacement a few years ago....

will check cables again tomorrow.

Mats: Still don't feel like replacing the harness quite yet, although I do have a spare milano harness and all the accessories...

I tested the fuel pump pressures of the old and new pumps and both were correct...and then I put the brand new pump into the car.

Zman: system voltage hovers around 12v..usually just a hair under 12.

voltage should be between 13 and 14v, a hair under 12v means the battery is being discharged...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:37 am

will check...

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:07 am

If you haven't done so already check your plug gaps.....I just fixed a miss between 2000 and 4500 on my Aprilia....plugs were worn....reset the gap and miss went away.

HTH,
Scott

Post by **Zamani** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:39 am

yes, check plug gaps.

But your voltage is very low, unless your voltmeter is bad. You can run on batteries for quite a while, maybe 2-3 hours of cruising without much load on the electrical system, and a few starts.

Have you had the alternator tested?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:25 am

New plugs with correct gap and alternator is working fine..

Installed new CRANE xr3000-292:

Install took 3 hours and was fairly straightforward...

set engine to tdc #1
remove dizzy
remove dizzy guts and save all parts (have to cut 3 hall sensor wires unfortunately..but cut them in the middle so you can use them again)

Install led sensor brackest (need the right length screw. the one they supplied did not work)

install plastic disc chopper wheel (kinda flimsy but should hold up to 3000rpm at least)

set chopper gap (easy)..and install dizzy back into engine ..BE VERY CAREUL about rotor/dizzy/chopper wheel phasing ...dizzy gear has a way of pulling out and rotating)

NOW, the electrical:
cut three white wires at old coil (one to tach, one to ECU, and third to ign comp.)

cut two black/green wires (12 ignition on and 12 v out to ign circuit)

twist three white wires together and add 8 ft white wire to cross engine bay

twist two black/green wires together and add 8 feet red wire to cross engine bay

Mount old coil near dual relay, connect yellow wire from CRANE and white wire form across engine bay to coil (-)

connect red wire from CRANE and red wire from across engine bay to coil (+)

ground crane unit and connect three wires from dissy optical unit to CRANE

NOTE: bosch Hall unit uses NON ballasted coil which works perfectly with the CRANE xr3000. Also, no need to change spark plug wires either!! Also, Big ECU senses coil (-) so no need for adapter!!

NOW THE WORST PART:
engine started right up and only needed minimal dizzy adjustment

BUT I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. since the entire Bosch ignition system has been replaced, problem must be with injector power, possible short in steering column as sometimes worse when turning..thanks everyone for all the suggestions!

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:10 pm

went back out and uncovered the injector wires, checked under steering column, and ran a few new engine grounds...no change

seems to be getting worse too.

Well, I am considering the Haltech e6x and just ripping out all the old wiring....anybody have maps for a 3.0L???

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:51 pm

This is occuring at a certain rpm and the load doesn't matter?

I'd rev it in neutral standing still to the problem rpm and just hold down the wiring in different places and see if there is a change.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:16 pm

Mats: I had the same thought...it does occur load or no load and wiggling wires does not make a difference...i thought maybe the throttle linkage was hitting something, but no...

Also Mats: it does not AT ALL happen when engine is cold...ONLY after a few miles when warmed or warming up... ECU sensor??? but all replaced..and problem is intermittent but getting worse...

Anyway..look what i found in my spare electrical box...Haltech e6s

I think I can get this to trigger from the coil or optical sensor in the dizzy. Since I will use the Crane for timing, I can use the Haltech in Multipoint setup so no need for Home trigger.

Haltech to run fuel map based on rpm , TPS, and manifold baro and temp sensor (and I can get rid of air flapper!)

Crane to do ignition...

I will just use a common trigger! and it's free (hope it still works)

what do you guys think...crazy..stupid...why not just get GoTech...!?

Free is the reason..oh yeah..and the challenge!

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:23 pm

Before I do all this electrical wiring ...does anybody think its a mechanical internal problem...like valve float?!

Never had a backfire...and works at full power when cold or hot and just started

I also checked thermo-time and cold start inj and both work correctly..

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 4:28 pm

hey x-rad, any chance of making a little video or sound file so we can listen how the misfire is??

how about this, rev the engine until it misses then as soon asi it misfires shut down the engine at that moment, and take out the plugs, take pics, post them here so we can get a clearer picture of what's going on

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:01 pm

Fedezyl: I will record it tomorrow and put it up on youtube

You guys have been really helpful, but I'm tired of dealing with it...

Unfortunately, the good old E6S is not compatable with winXP and I don't want to buy another old computer...SOooo, I will probably order the Haltech f10x stand alone fuel only management blah blah blah computer.

This is a real nice system and the GUI is much easier to use (you can download it from Haltech and try it out) Also they have MUCH improved the 100 page manual with better (read: they looked at the wires and the program when they wrote the new user guide) instructions AND pics....

http://www.haltech.com.au/f10x.htm

about 700$ with leads..

Once I get it up and running I will have many Bosch 3.0L and 2.5 electronics at the garage sale!

This combined with the Crane ignition module should give me some more power as I can eliminate the flapper box...

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:22 pm

Why not an E6X? Surely you should get something that can control ignition too?

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:43 am

I agree with mats, since you are going the programmable ECU way, go the whole way and get something that controls spark too....

CRANE XR3000-292 install