ALFAGTV6.COM

[MR2 Zig]

I have to be the chick magnet on this site as well..

I thought Mats had that one....."One man racing"

[kevin]

Hi Niclas, absolutely a dream car. Now that you are giving away most of your secrets how about some pics of front suspesion, shock kg's,and toe settings. (next will be rear set up etc -ha ha) Hopefully we can learn something here.

[Niclas]

Hi Niclas,

Lovely car! What did you do to modify the CSC? Is it just the bottom 1/2 close to where it meets the middle muffler?

Hi Zamani !

I cut the CSC pipes just before the flexjoint. (just after 6 pipes goes to two)
Here i put in a pair of 2 inch pipes with a length of approx 70 cm. Aftar this the two pipes go togheter to a FIA cat. After Cat it is divided again (2x2inch) 90 degress both left and right. Mufflers, outlets on both sides.

I will post a picture to make this more clear.

Hi !
Here is 3 pictures of my exhaust system

ex_1.JPG (253.71 KiB) Viewed 6602 times

ex_2.JPG (249.22 KiB) Viewed 6602 times

ex_3.JPG (215.2 KiB) Viewed 6599 times

[Niclas]

Hi Niclas, absolutely a dream car. Now that you are giving away most of your secrets how about some pics of front suspesion, shock kg's,and toe settings. (next will be rear set up etc -ha ha) Hopefully we can learn something here.

Hi Kevin !
I think I have stolen some ideas from your racecars in the past.

I run front toe out 1.0 mm (total), Front camber 3,5 degree
Front caster around 8 degree.
My front springs are 170N/mm

No secrets here !

front_1.JPG (248.11 KiB) Viewed 6584 times

front_2.JPG (228.03 KiB) Viewed 6590 times

front_3.JPG (232.66 KiB) Viewed 6585 times

front_4.JPG (233.75 KiB) Viewed 6579 times

[Maurizio]

Nice one this V6... I like all the details.

especially like the upper arm! Although it looks flimsy
I'm interested what you are using as lower and upper ball joint, looks like standard items from other vehicles.

[Mats]

Hmm, what keeps the upper balljoint from rotating? Luck and a shitload of clamp load?

[Maurizio]

Hmm, what keeps the upper balljoint from rotating? Luck and a shitload of clamp load?

It has too be, 2x clamping force (upper arm + castor rod [with the castor rod a very long lever so is only doing just a little bit]). First I though there was a same rod at the front of the absorber towards chassis as upper arm construction.
So same thought here about the upper arm towards chassis (buckling load), and the thin bump steer correction.
It all looks a of kind scary thin at first glance. Thats why I already made the flimsy comment

[kevin]

Thanks , good details there. This suspension is only flimsy in an accident (to late then)but if you go and calc all the forces in tension, compression,(starting with rose joints) you will find its way within the G's and loadings you are going to drive. (unless you hit a pothole - none on circuit) I went through that procedure when making the upper control arms. Out mech . eng. confirmed all our calcs as I dont remember didley from Uni days.
Again great car !!

[Niclas]

Hmm, what keeps the upper balljoint from rotating? Luck and a shitload of clamp load?

Welding !

Upper balljoint is welded (and also secured with one M10 fastner) togheter with caster link.

The link towards engine only take sideway forces. All brake/acc forces goes to caster link.

Link towards engine is 10 mm and made of 10.9 steel
I easily adjust camber with this link.

I have run this chassi design for more than 2 years know (approx 20 races/trackdays) without any failure.
I sofar have manage 1,8 G in sideway acc.

[Niclas]

Nice one this V6... I like all the details.

especially like the upper arm! Although it looks flimsy
I'm interested what you are using as lower and upper ball joint, looks like standard items from other vehicles.

Hi Maurizio !

As the Swede I am:

Upper joint is from a Volvo 360 car. (front susp)
It fits straight on the knuckle.

Lower joint is from a Saab 9-3 SS (rear axle)
Some modification needed on knuckle. This joint is 14 mm straight (no cone)

[Micke]

Congratulations Niclas!

Nice to see a new and good design. Quite genious way to get a light and adjustable UCA with lots of space for the spring.

[Mats]

Oh, welded. That would keep it in control I guess.

Kevin: I guess you don't have any curbs or gravel traps either?

btw, started to edit the video the other day but iy was so boring I didn't finish it.
I'll give it another go soon.

[Maurizio]

I've toyed around with a kind of similar idea for the upper arm (in my head and some steel to visualize it on my car). But never came to the point to actually build it

basic idea:
If you give the castor rod an uniball and the rod towards the chassis also an uniball at the upright side.
Place the 2 uniballs (from castor + chassis) on top of each other onto the upright, you don't get any annoying forces that need welding etc... ,
The only problem I had is to get around the coil-over spring, as I only want straight beams.
The solution would be opening up the sheet metal behind the original upper arm mounting point, so the uniball on the chassis side moves more toward the firewall and can clear the spring.
Another advantage of placing the uniballs on top of each other it can work like a nuckle raiser.

Nicolas, 1.8G impressive!!!

[Mats]

So 3 uniballs on the same bolt? Sounds like a good way to induce bending in the bolt..?

[Maurizio]

So 3 uniballs on the same bolt? Sounds like a good way to induce bending in the bolt..?

nope 2 uniballs on the same bolt + I found uniballs where the ball is trimmed more then usual