ALFAGTV6.COM

Bill obviously no one on this board wants to give you bad advice hence the 26 deg.I've sucessfully run 36 deg.on my 2.5 for 2 years - street and track and so far no craters in my pistons I run regular fuel by the way.Use at your own risk etc etc etc

Yes guys the car has been "sitting" still for 5 months - short Canadian winter If it turns out to be the rear main I'll let you know.

Zamani unfortunately your probably in the right ballpark but I'm still hoping to find something less drastic ! - fat chance eh

fedezyl thanks for the suggestion on the guide but I don't think that's it because my guides are bronze and this stuff is truly copper coloured.Strange thing is it's partly ferous because I can pick it up with a magnet. kevin I'll take your suggestion and peer down that hole - maybe I'll find some m...

My 1986 GTV6 2.5L has decided to give me grief right at the start of summer :evil: I rebuilt/blueprinted this engine completely about 80k kms (50k miles) ago.Recently it developed a knock when lightly loaded and started sounding "cammy" if that tells you anything.In the hope that my oil pu...

Xrad before you trim the spacers I suggest you get to an allignment shop.My car 86 GTV6 is lowered and I still have shims to achieve -1.3d eg camber.

Kevin no the valve cover is standard issue nothing special about it.

I think xrad's suggestion is a good one I'll add one to my car and along with the turbonator in the intake and some splitfire spark plugs I should be approaching 200 Hp.

slyalfa the top of the tube is supported by the plastic clip in the cylinder head and it is just hanging there.As Maldi already suggested it is located pretty much under the oil vapour seperator on the valve cover so it's possible that originally the tube was connected to the seperator but it's beyo...

Ok guys it's getting stranger :shock: I pulled the sump on this engine today and the attached picture shows where this plastic tube ends up.The weirdest aspect,to me,is that the brass tube that is attached to the oil pump is crimped at its end (and it very much looks to be original AR factory) so it...

Yes I'm another fan of Porterfield's products.I run the R4 on the track and they are beyond reproach.Once they're warm they bite well and are very progressive.They last a long time and don't consume rotors .not Brembos anyway :D A note of caution on the R4S pads.I normally run them on the street and...

In defense of Megasquirt. Just so none of you potential converts get dismayed by the naysayers,let me summarize: -4-years approx 60k kms track and street - no hiccups. Gained about 15hp over L-jet -Car averages 9 ltrs./100km at cruise -120kmph. -yes I have to bring a laptop in the car if I want to d...

Please get a "real" ECU. You will get something sooo much better then a DIY box Mats that one got my attention,I've been running a Megasquirt for 4 years on my GTV6 2.5L street and track and have zero doubts about my choice.I've looked at some of the other systems and have yet to see one ...

Charlie I believe that there is more to this tube than meets the eye :shock: If I'm not mistaken it is in fact a pipe which contains mercury or some such substance which reacts to temperature at the AC evaporator and signals the AC compressor on and off through the rotary temperature switch.I think ...

I think MALDI might be on to something Isn't it near the air/oil separator on the right hand side valve cover? The tube which is retained by the plastic clip could have originally run up to the oil/vapor seperator which is directly above its location.It's beyond me however why AR would have seen the...

Mr2Zig no the hose appears to go all the way down to the sump I'll be going down there in a few days and will find out where the other end terminates. xrad the hose is just hanging out there on the plastic support so I don't think it could serve to return oil from the head but who knows after all it...