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One advantage of painting all the plastic bits (any colour) is that you don't have to be so careful when (if) waxing.

Maybe wax/polish would help paint on plastic parts last longer. Or may not make any difference if the paint gives up due to plastic flexing with temperature.

AL.

I'd go with all those pieces black. I think these cars need plenty of contrast, particularly in red and white. Paint the bumpers too, except for the flat inserts, like the metallic blue one in the header of this site at the moment. If there's going to be any parts not in the body colour, then you ha...

Mats,

Sounds convincing to me. Nice information as usually most suspensions mods people talk about isn't related to comfort.

Thanks.

I might be opening a can of worms here, but which do people think are more comfortable for the road?

Car has been lowered (too much) but everything is still standard.

A couple of other suggestions. Australian models (and Switzerland according to the manual) have an excess vacuum valve on the plenum chamber - 2 hoses to the plenum, one to the air intake tube. I had an idle that would get a little higher (200-300 rpm) when fully warmed up. Seemed to drop or rise at...

Chuck, You mentioned a green wire from the ignition switch. That should go to the spark coil resistor & the car won't run without it. If your car is the same as my 1983 (Australian delivered) there are four wires coming out of the ignition switch - three (including the green) go through a 3-way ...

Just to add my vote - this topic prompted me to degrease the brake booster vacuum check valve on the weekend. It fixed my occasional "No vacuum assist just after starting" problem. -Which could be quiet startling at the stop sign at the bottom of the hill leaving my house.

I made some replacements from some every thin aluminium. Longer than the originals and with pointed tips so they make it easier to read. Bent them in a V shape along their length and glued them to the hubs with the ridge facing the driver so that they reflect the illumination at night from the chamf...

Kanga, It'll mean bleeding from scratch again, but maybe try pulling the nipples right off and using some Teflon tape on the threads. I had to open the rear nipples nearly a full turn to get a rush of fluid to force out the last few bubbles. If you are using a vacuum bleed, you’ll just be sucking ai...

Mats has a very good point. Once you understand the relationship between the splines at front & rear of the torsion bars (Greg Gordon’s guide is a good one) you can move your front ride height any number of increments of 1.5 mm. It can be damned hard to visualise, but if you mark the torsion bar...

I had no luck until I made up a pressure bleeder (retail are way too expensive here in Australia). I put a brass nipple on top of a spare master reservoir cap and a tube to a tyre valve connector. I used a bicycle tyre at 12-15 psi. I found I had to use a bit of wood to keep the brake pedal half dep...

Greg,

Try this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=462&view=unread#unread

I find the idea of two taps located in the engine bay attractive , but then you'd have to take care of freezing the heater core if you have working air conditioning.

AL.

Kanga,

With a name like that, are you in Australia?

If so, how much did you pay for the set, if you don't mind me asking?

Only I've got a set of wheezy OEM (SPICA ?) on the back of my car .

AL in Melbourne.

Greg, The Positive terminal block is on the firewall next to the Brake booster. It's mounted on the side of the bonnet catch. Two big fat cables leaving from the bottom. One goes to the battery and the other to the starter. 3 or more usually red wires also. But if you are getting a good fast crank a...

Greg, The 13.7v you were getting at idle, was measured that at the battery? Were you getting a good, quick turn over of the starter initially with the new battery? I assume you've cleaned all the battery terminals, positive block in the engine bay and earth connections. I thought I'd covered them al...