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Are you 180deg out? Do another full engine rotation until the "P" mark lines up on the crank pulley pin - remove the distributor cap and check that the rotor aligns with the mark on the distributor body at cylinder no1 lead. Also if you remove the tappet covers there are marks on the cam s...

I've had to replace my ignition switch with a different one and am not sure how the green wire (V1) from ignition switch (13) to ballast resistor (6) should be connected. I can't test on my old ignition switch as contacts are all shorting out. [A] Should this green wire always provide power (ie: ign...

My Alfetta (with 2.5 engine from gtv6) started using water about about 3 weeks ago with no visible leaks. Began topping up water bottle every few days. Engine then got worse and started idling roughly and running poorly at low rpm. Noticed that removing lead from no 5 cylinder didn't create a substa...

I have had a similar problem before - the wires connecting to the coolant temp sensor at the thermostat were oxidised. If you have ever had your thermostat gasket leaking antifreeze (like mine) this is probably a likely cause. Try and disconnect the wires leading to the temp sensor and start the car...

AK Components. 011 - 708 7240. Try and give them a call (speak to Kevin) > they might have centre coupling for gtv6 if you are looking for one.... If you are looking for a soft rubber gtv6 hanger bearing I do have an new one which I bought and will not use - I can post this locally (ZA) if anybody n...

PROBLEM SOLVED :lol: My very first suspicions ended up being correct > it was the Hanger all along! I kept thinking of the 1970's when the first alfetta's came out > Alfa Romeo couldn't have knocked their head so many times with complex machinery trying to balance the shafts..... [*] I took the pro...

Thanks I'll try and give these chaps a call. I have checked a number of things: - Loosened bump stop and unscrewed it all the way to check so am sure its not touching. - Have tried to rev in neutral with clutch in and clutch out and there is no change to vibration. Also driving the car in gear resul...

After removing the propshaft again, I took it to a different place for balancing (what a mission to find a place who actually has jigs to mount the rubber couplings to their machines). They ran the prop as a complete unit and said that it was out of balance. Anyway, I got it back a week later with h...

Measured mine at 28.4mm However, I did notice when loosening the hanger bearing that it was sitting ± 5mm forward from the mounting studs when loose so I think that the propshaft might have been pushed too far forward into the splines.... When loosening the rear coupling there was also a small gap b...

I took the propshaft out again today > Will take it tomorrow morning to a different shop to check the balancing. I've installed the old gearbox mounts as they still look good. There is a ± 8mm height difference between the new and old ones! Maybe the old ones have sagged a bit? Anyhoo > will let yu ...

After spending the whole day trying to check the propshaft alignment by adjusting gearbox mounts and crossmember up and down and also engine bellhousing mounting up and down I've come to the conclusion that this does not affect the vibration at all.... The vibration is still there and with all my ad...

Hi Greg, Thanks I have read your article before - some very good info! I have loosened the pinch bolt and tightened it. The vibration is still present regardless if the pinch bolt is tight or loose. I thought that there might have been too much clearance between the front yolk and the splines so ins...

I have a 1984 Alfetta 159 saloon with a 2.5 engine from a GTV6. The propshaft front part was modified to match a gtv6 propshaft. The car was incredibly smooth with no vibration and covered about 100,000km in 10 years. I inspected the couplings and noticed a few cracks on all of them. I decided it wa...