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x-rad
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clutch master

Post by x-rad »

Geeeeeeeze!!! who decided to design the clutch master cylinder with the allen head bolts in backward...and 99.8% hidden behind everything???

NOT a fun job....
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

Haha...Once you`ve done about 20 you start making special tools..

Remove the instrument cluster above it and work through there with 1/4" tools...Its a bitch but you can do it in under 15minutes.. :D
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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Mats
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Post by Mats »

On my racecar I could actually reach around the A-pillar to hold AND turn the nut myself (my MC had a nut, not sure if this was drilled out by some PO though).

Working on a racecar with no interior is usually soo much easier. :)
Mats Strandberg
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

I know that laugh Barry, it's the one I use right after a friend bust a knuckle trying to wrench something....

Mats: I already pulled the seat so I can have more room to be frustrated...


Thanks for the tips!
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Mats
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Post by Mats »

The SEAT?? :shock:
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-

GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

Mats wrote:The SEAT?? :shock:
Yeah, the thing the driver sits on :P

....much more room without it, just used flex joint and long 3/8th extension to my 3/8th pneumatic wrench

PLUS...i had to peel back the carpet to try to soak up all the clutch master fluid that leaked all over....

I would rather change a rusted exhaust...
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

I feel like I am the only one posting this weekend....must be sunny everywhere but here

Anyway, I have to take back my design peeve I stated above to start this thread. Frustrated by the difficulty removing the two rusted allen head screws holding the brake master cylinder in place, I tried something different.

For those who already know, skip the rest.

There are five easy to reach lipped nuts holding the pedal box in place. Two on top, three on bottom.

Undo the three brake lines to the brake master, remove the valve support, undo the line to the clutch master, then undo the five nuts under the dash.

The whole unit removes easily, up and out. Then its easy to replace what you need to. Much easier to replace springs and pins as well. Only drawback is now I have to bleed the brakes, too!
Attachments
Back togethger with new head, No leak this time.
Back togethger with new head, No leak this time.
brake 004.jpg (158.5 KiB) Viewed 5598 times
easy to work on
easy to work on
brake 003.jpg (126.62 KiB) Viewed 5598 times
firewall mount
firewall mount
brake 002.jpg (113.85 KiB) Viewed 5596 times
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scott.venables
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Post by scott.venables »

Looks good! Do you have any problems with the spout on the side of the brake reservoir leaking? If you heat the spout up with a lighter you can squash it flat with a pair of pliers . Worked for me.

Cheers, Scott
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

I was actually thinking of doing just that, but since it has not leaked in two years, I just left it alone...
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