Geeeeeeeze!!! who decided to design the clutch master cylinder with the allen head bolts in backward...and 99.8% hidden behind everything???
NOT a fun job....
Haha...Once you`ve done about 20 you start making special tools..
Remove the instrument cluster above it and work through there with 1/4" tools...Its a bitch but you can do it in under 15minutes..
Remove the instrument cluster above it and work through there with 1/4" tools...Its a bitch but you can do it in under 15minutes..
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
On my racecar I could actually reach around the A-pillar to hold AND turn the nut myself (my MC had a nut, not sure if this was drilled out by some PO though).
Working on a racecar with no interior is usually soo much easier.
Working on a racecar with no interior is usually soo much easier.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Yeah, the thing the driver sits onMats wrote:The SEAT??
....much more room without it, just used flex joint and long 3/8th extension to my 3/8th pneumatic wrench
PLUS...i had to peel back the carpet to try to soak up all the clutch master fluid that leaked all over....
I would rather change a rusted exhaust...
I feel like I am the only one posting this weekend....must be sunny everywhere but here
Anyway, I have to take back my design peeve I stated above to start this thread. Frustrated by the difficulty removing the two rusted allen head screws holding the brake master cylinder in place, I tried something different.
For those who already know, skip the rest.
There are five easy to reach lipped nuts holding the pedal box in place. Two on top, three on bottom.
Undo the three brake lines to the brake master, remove the valve support, undo the line to the clutch master, then undo the five nuts under the dash.
The whole unit removes easily, up and out. Then its easy to replace what you need to. Much easier to replace springs and pins as well. Only drawback is now I have to bleed the brakes, too!
Anyway, I have to take back my design peeve I stated above to start this thread. Frustrated by the difficulty removing the two rusted allen head screws holding the brake master cylinder in place, I tried something different.
For those who already know, skip the rest.
There are five easy to reach lipped nuts holding the pedal box in place. Two on top, three on bottom.
Undo the three brake lines to the brake master, remove the valve support, undo the line to the clutch master, then undo the five nuts under the dash.
The whole unit removes easily, up and out. Then its easy to replace what you need to. Much easier to replace springs and pins as well. Only drawback is now I have to bleed the brakes, too!
- Attachments
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- Back togethger with new head, No leak this time.
- brake 004.jpg (158.5 KiB) Viewed 5598 times
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- easy to work on
- brake 003.jpg (126.62 KiB) Viewed 5598 times
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- firewall mount
- brake 002.jpg (113.85 KiB) Viewed 5596 times
- scott.venables
- Gold
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia