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- Gold
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- Location: Keystone Hgts, Floureyeduh
x-rad,
Did you get your gearbox & linkage in? I found a not too old rebuilt '85 for mine similar to yours. I didn't get the shifter so I modded the rod link with some washers. The fotos of the shifter parts helped me put mine together as well. I am having a bit of the clearance problem using the air hammer to fit this in my '84. Anybody know just how much body mod it takes to accomplish this? Also, is the later shifter different other than the connecting link?
Did you get your gearbox & linkage in? I found a not too old rebuilt '85 for mine similar to yours. I didn't get the shifter so I modded the rod link with some washers. The fotos of the shifter parts helped me put mine together as well. I am having a bit of the clearance problem using the air hammer to fit this in my '84. Anybody know just how much body mod it takes to accomplish this? Also, is the later shifter different other than the connecting link?
Regards,
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
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- Gold
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:55 pm
- Location: Keystone Hgts, Floureyeduh
-
- Gold
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:55 pm
- Location: Keystone Hgts, Floureyeduh
I think your right about the shifter length being longer from the ball socket down to the bottom connector. I've only got the original shifter and the connecting rod is rubbing the driveshaft center support bracket. I don't know if this is binding up the shifter rod or not. The rod on the iso connection, the short one with the 2 ball joint ends about 1 1/2" long, keeps popping off. It was disconnected when I got the parts.
The fork end of the shifting rod is definitely wider. I filled this in with a couple of washers.
The fork end of the shifting rod is definitely wider. I filled this in with a couple of washers.
Regards,
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
Milano:
shifter 'eye': ID = 14m, L = 20mm
86 GTV6:
shifter eye: ID = 12mm, L = 20mm
84 GTV6:
shifter eye: ID = 12mm(?), L = possibly less than above, thru bolt needs to be 5mm shorter. Basically the only simple upgrade here is re-bushing. Every 2 years...
All use a poor quality thru-bolt of odd dia. To upgrade, the rod fork ID should be (barely) enlarged, to 8mm, allowing a precision shoulder bolt to be used. Which makes sourcing bushings/bearings easier.
shifter 'eye': ID = 14m, L = 20mm
86 GTV6:
shifter eye: ID = 12mm, L = 20mm
84 GTV6:
shifter eye: ID = 12mm(?), L = possibly less than above, thru bolt needs to be 5mm shorter. Basically the only simple upgrade here is re-bushing. Every 2 years...
All use a poor quality thru-bolt of odd dia. To upgrade, the rod fork ID should be (barely) enlarged, to 8mm, allowing a precision shoulder bolt to be used. Which makes sourcing bushings/bearings easier.
Last edited by DaveH on Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Gold
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:55 pm
- Location: Keystone Hgts, Floureyeduh
Dave,
Two questions.
1. Can you explain about the 'rod' specs you supplied. I'm not quite grasping as I'm getting run down restoring my GTV6.
2. Give me some detail on the bearing upgrade as I'm interested.
I measured the inside width on the connecting rod on the iso and original; 20mm vs. 15mm respectively. I believe if the original could be mated properly, it should make a shorter throw.
Two questions.
1. Can you explain about the 'rod' specs you supplied. I'm not quite grasping as I'm getting run down restoring my GTV6.
2. Give me some detail on the bearing upgrade as I'm interested.
I measured the inside width on the connecting rod on the iso and original; 20mm vs. 15mm respectively. I believe if the original could be mated properly, it should make a shorter throw.
Regards,
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
N. G. Brooks Robinson
'84 GTV6
'84 M635CSi
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- Gold
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:55 pm
- Location: Keystone Hgts, Floureyeduh