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powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:44 pm

Got everything out today, just had to do a little plying.

Like I had suspected, the clutch fork pivot ball is sheared off. I found it at IAP for $28, but haven't been able to find it anywhere else. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Carson

bobsiopener · Post by **bobsiopener** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 1:15 pm

Hi Carson,
I know of someone in NJ who has one but you might try san diego alfa. I had seen IAP selling them for $28 and was suprised because Its such a small peice but since I didn't need one I didn't shop around. Good luck
Bob

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:27 pm

Okay, well I got everything back together on Sunday the 29th and everything was working perfectly. The hydralics bled easily and once everything was assembled I was back on the road in about an hour. I made sure the use a high pressure grease on the clutch fork and pivot ball and the rubber boot was in place to prevent it from being washed away.

Last Friday I was trying to teach a friend to dive a stick (in the Alfa...not again). My friend drove it for about 10 minutes with 3 or 4 stops and a few gear shifts. Only stalled once. However, after the stall, I got back into the driver's seat to head home and the clutch was extremely stiff. I was able to drive home how it was, but it's been sitting since then (college applications and homework are a deadly combo).

Today I finally got under it and found that the pivot ball had pulled itself out of the housing as I suspected. I read about what Bobsiopener had to do (on the AlfaBB) with getting a thread insert and drilling the hole out and replacing the threads.

How hard is this to do? Can it be done with the transmission in the car?

Also, since I'm going to have to pull everything apart again, how much more difficult is it to drop the entire transmission? I would like to get in there and detail the area, along with possibly painting the transmission housing. I'm under no time restraint to get the car back up and running either (the city bus system here is perfect for me).

Once again, thank you!

Carson

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 5:21 pm

no rest for the weary

i think that you should just keep the alfa as a conversation piece. j/k. rip that transaxle out again and spend the 5mins it takes to drill out and retap the hole. i imagine that after dropping half the setup recently you will be quicker and there will not be any ancient rusted on harware. good luck w/ the car and the essays!
vittorio
ps: you should have applied early decision!!!!

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 8:32 pm

Haha I already did apply to MIT's Early Action program. Now I just have to round out the rest of the college applications and get those it (total of 5).

I'm not too worried about dropping the rest, just curious if its would be that much harder to drop the whole transaxle.

Carson

Murray · Post by **Murray** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 3:05 am

Carson pulling the whole dedion/transaxle is not difficult and will give you an opportunity to thoroughly inspect and clean up everything back there.
Basically you have to:
- Lift the rear of the car as high as possible and support it on good solid jackstands.
- Remove rear exhaust.
- Disconnect driveshaft rear coupling and shift rod.
- Disconnect watts links to chassis connections.
- Disconnect hydraulic lines to clutch slave and rear brake calipers.
- Disconnect parking brake cable.
- Disconnect shock absorbers.
- Remove 6 bolts connecting front crossmember to body.

Next you need to use something to support the rear of the transaxle to prevent it from dropping down into the dedion triangle and stressing the axle halfshafts.I used a strip of flexible plywood which I fed over the dedion tubes and under the transaxle. ( see image)
Now you need to position (ideally two) hydraulic jacks under the transaxle,one at the front and one under the differential.The final step is to undo the bolt that runs through the rear transmission support and through the chassis.Make sure your jack is securely supporting the assembly because once this bolt is removed she's coming down !
I was able to get my car high enough that I left the wheels on which made rolling the assembly out much easier.
Hopefully I haven't missed anything !
Once you get it out you'll be really glad you went this route

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:11 pm

Sounds like I'll be pulling the whole setup on Friday. Now the bigger question:

Do I paint the transaxle or leave it how it is?
If I do paint it, red or black?

Right now I'm leaning towards red, but it would get dirty quickly. What would you guys do if it was your car?

Carson

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:49 pm

i stripped and then painted mine black with 3m truck bed lining spray.
v

powderhoundcd · Post by **powderhoundcd** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:28 pm

The paint i was planning on using was VHT Wrinkle, it give a similar effect to the truck bed paint. I just need to decide if I want to do it for sure or not yet.

Carson

SimonB · Post by **SimonB** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:01 am

I've had two slave cylinders fail in two years, do you think I need to look at the linkage or could this just be poor quality parts. It was changed at a main dealers here in September 2005 and last night it broke again

Luckily it failed in the garage. Could it fail because the car has been left standing a lot over the past year?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 4:31 am

Don't paint it, more insulation is not a good thing here...
Looks is a non-issue, it's underneath the bloody car you know.

I usually don't disconnect the rear brakes, just hang them under the car somewhere. No bleeding necessary and less messy.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 7:23 am

I usually don't disconnect the rear brakes, just hang them under the car somewhere. No bleeding necessary and less messy.

like this......