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On this close up you can see where the rings bite into the head. I have this system using the identical cooper ring system on the 3.2 which has been running perfectly for four years and very reliably.

Nice one Kev !!
Get it back together now,the potential was eveident when I drove it..
Feel free to share the oil pump goodie..No secrets here..

Pic of heads skimmed. One or two tiny pit holes but nothing serious in x -ray and nothing near where ring 'bites'.

Kevin,

Do you know what alloy of aluminum to use when welding? I have to weld a piece on the block where the a/c idler pulley bolt goes.

The Milano my 3.0 came from had smacked a curb HARD and broke this bit off. He also broke the upper oil pan a/c mount, front cover (where idler bolt goes thru it), both exhaust manifolds, one engine mount, the right front corner back to the firewall, buckled the roof, etc.

I have the engine apart to rebuild and here in the summer you want what a/c you can get.

thanks,
scott

Scott, I really would not know as I just tell the guy what I want and he does it accordingly. This guy is so good that there is a three week waiting list just to get stuff done. Nearly all Alfa 146,145 etc sumps that are smashed(happens daily) here go to him. I will ask this week when i see him and will mail you.
Cheers

Thanks a bunch Kevin.

Scott

MR2 Zig wrote:....
Do you know what alloy of aluminum to use when welding? I have to weld a piece on the block where the a/c idler pulley bolt goes....

here some quote from well known alu head builder, its not for block welding but rules are the same
"Weld with 5356 filler rod. It has a lot of silicon in it and goes on hard. I see many people weld heads with 4043 rod and that is not the correct rod for welding aluminum heads. It's too soft. It machines like lead, won't hold a valve seat well, and the head gasket grooves it too easily.

Get a 250 degree tempstick to periodically check he head temp while you're welding. Weld the head cold, with no pre-heating. A square wave machine helps. You want to keep the parent material from annealing. The only time I pre-heat is when I'm welding a thin area. After the welding is done peen it with a hammer.

Forget about heat treating. The head will shrink and warp.

Also, DO NOT heat soak the heads above 250-275 for very long as it will soften/anneal the entire head."

Thanks for the help TS

Scott

Hey Kevin,

The build looks great!

I was wondering what is going on with your front 'guibo?' Is that just a casing and a guibo is in there or whats happening?

Also I wouldn't mind hearing about how to secure the oil pump drive well. PM me if you don't want to tell everyone. I'd rather not lose my oil pressure ever!

Thanks,

Don

Hi db, I will search for some pics on the oil pump but all the info is on this site. This is how I started this type of conversion on 3.0 five years ago. There were detailed pics from some one in the USA who did this.
This was very heplfull right down to the grinding of sump so the the old style oil pump could bolt on.
With regards to the guibo, thats a coupling cage. there is a lot of info and pics of it in the race section on 'budget race car'.(look in last few pages. I spent a lot of time searching threads and down loading info before i started. If you get stuck just shout as this is what the forums about.
In the meantime i will see what pics I can find from any one of the conversions on oil pump.
I saw your thread on the gotech. You should email them. i remember every time I had a problem I would first blame the system but It was always on my side ie bad relay, bad contact fuses,BROKEN VALVE SPRING, water down sparkplug etc. It was simply the first thing to blame. Personally I think its a great system and has not let me down in two years of racing. Its all up to the installer .
Ps I would like to keep this thread 3.7 realted as I must finish it with the head gaskets we had specially made after making twenty dud sets to strat off with.
Cheers
Kevin

After two water leaks on the head due inaccurate machine work from my machinists I decided to go with a specially made head gasket. This has been a long process with the chaps making the gaskets. The first sets rings were not rolled correctly and did not have enough area to rest on sleeve. Once this was right the rings started to split so new tooling was made. Then finally the pressing were leaving slight indents on the ring when they were removing them. This would cause blow by . Also the water jacket slots had to be made into holes to match head with block. Finally the gaskets are done and are now perfect. Pics to follow

Pic of gasket lying loosely on the head. They are 100% accurate . I used the Goetze gasket to make the origional template.

Its taken twenty sets just to get to this one . Here is a pic of twenty dud sets with incorrect ring thickness. Also is a pic of a blank without the shelac and silicone. Also the waterjacket hole were incorrect.

How was this conversion done previously without special head gaskets?

My other motors run with a simple ring thats sits on top of the sleeve and bites into the head with the surrounds of an origional head gasket used to seal off the water and oil. It works perfectly on all my other motors except for this one. Just thought I would try some thing different when you cant always rely on your machining chap. I prefer the origional method.