jimmy in my opinion i say keep it to rwhp. despite all the variables and slight inconsistencies, at the end of the day if the others are using the same method and we want to compare our power figures with them, then easiest to stick with it. just as long as it is obviously out in the open at the end of the day if someone wants to compare their 3litre power with their mates skyline power then mostly the dude with the skyline is also going by rwhp also. basically for arguments sake compare apples to apples. just my 2 cents.
patzo_3l
3l gtv6 turbo 85'
2006 147 gta selespeed
1990 75 twinspark
1998 spider
2.0l gtv 85'
33 1.7ie
3l gtv6 turbo 85'
2006 147 gta selespeed
1990 75 twinspark
1998 spider
2.0l gtv 85'
33 1.7ie
Jim,
State the dyno type, temperature, humidity, tire type, tire pressure, gear oil type, altitude, the color of the pants you wore that day, correction factor used by the dyno and you should be good.
Oh is there a chance you could dyno it with two fuel types as well? One with 100 RON and another with 97 RON?
State the dyno type, temperature, humidity, tire type, tire pressure, gear oil type, altitude, the color of the pants you wore that day, correction factor used by the dyno and you should be good.
Oh is there a chance you could dyno it with two fuel types as well? One with 100 RON and another with 97 RON?
Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d 
==> definitely BANNED!
So, we can still tell true lies to each other about our engines! 
Best method to take in account both, the prosentage and constant part is following:
1. Find out the ratio between driving speed and the engine speed by driving constant speed with very low power (couple of positive kWs) but high speed (possibly the speed where you think the highest torque should been found)
2. Perform the power run with logging also the driving speed and the engine rpm
3. After that do the coast down test
4. Compare how many prosentage higher is the engine speed compared to driving speed multiplied by the ratio determined on step 1 (plot the results as %, usually this slipping % is highest in the highest torque)
5. Determine slipping losses by multiblying the slipping % by wheel power
6. Add the coast down curve and slipping losses curve to wheel power curve
7. Take the gear prosentage losses in account by calculating how many gear contacts there is and multiply it with reasonable loss %. Maybe 1% / jump from one gear to another.. (use better number for different gears if available)
General suggestions:
- use wide and low profile (no need for extreme) tyres
- worn ones are better than the new ones
- if using dyno with two rollers / tyre, be aware that the moving back and forth will depending the flexibility of mounting do some error
- using small diameter rollers may lift slipping losses high and it will make some error, even when compensated
- doing all this will still forget the inertia of the driveline and tyres
- use big gears enough to minimize the effect of the inertia and slipping
- in very high speed the tyres may start resonating, which will cause some error (occurs earlier with narrow and tall tyres with low speed rating..)
- the pressure and temperature will also affect on results, so be sure those have been compensated on results
In some times it's better to forget all of this to avoid unneeded confusing.. Maybe this really should been moved to different discussion
1. Find out the ratio between driving speed and the engine speed by driving constant speed with very low power (couple of positive kWs) but high speed (possibly the speed where you think the highest torque should been found)
2. Perform the power run with logging also the driving speed and the engine rpm
3. After that do the coast down test
4. Compare how many prosentage higher is the engine speed compared to driving speed multiplied by the ratio determined on step 1 (plot the results as %, usually this slipping % is highest in the highest torque)
5. Determine slipping losses by multiblying the slipping % by wheel power
6. Add the coast down curve and slipping losses curve to wheel power curve
7. Take the gear prosentage losses in account by calculating how many gear contacts there is and multiply it with reasonable loss %. Maybe 1% / jump from one gear to another.. (use better number for different gears if available)
General suggestions:
- use wide and low profile (no need for extreme) tyres
- worn ones are better than the new ones
- if using dyno with two rollers / tyre, be aware that the moving back and forth will depending the flexibility of mounting do some error
- using small diameter rollers may lift slipping losses high and it will make some error, even when compensated
- doing all this will still forget the inertia of the driveline and tyres
- use big gears enough to minimize the effect of the inertia and slipping
- in very high speed the tyres may start resonating, which will cause some error (occurs earlier with narrow and tall tyres with low speed rating..)
- the pressure and temperature will also affect on results, so be sure those have been compensated on results
In some times it's better to forget all of this to avoid unneeded confusing.. Maybe this really should been moved to different discussion
Kimmo / alfatune.fi
No matter how much power it makes, the sound is the best feature!
Here is some high quality audio (MP3) taken of my GTV6 on the dyno ...
Run through the gears
Throttle snaps
Special thanks to JasonS for these clips
Cheers,
Here is some high quality audio (MP3) taken of my GTV6 on the dyno ...
Run through the gears
Throttle snaps
Special thanks to JasonS for these clips
Cheers,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Hi Scott:
That is a good question - I have not decided what to do with the engine yet.
I might end up keeping it as a spare ... or start modifying it with a supercharger or turbo's, but I might sell it too. I think it depends in large part on how reliable the new engine proves to be. I think I'll be able to judge that better when the new engine is installed and has been tested a bit.
I'll put you first in line if you like.
Cheers,
That is a good question - I have not decided what to do with the engine yet.
I might end up keeping it as a spare ... or start modifying it with a supercharger or turbo's, but I might sell it too. I think it depends in large part on how reliable the new engine proves to be. I think I'll be able to judge that better when the new engine is installed and has been tested a bit.
I'll put you first in line if you like.
Cheers,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Finally had my GTV6 dynoed with it's new glenwood motors 3.0L 24v motor & GoTech MFI Pro.
It produced 199.2HP at the wheels with a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer at roughly 6500 rpm. It was set up with the 2.5 stock muffler system past the headers except with an Ansa twin tip exhaust.
Pleasing results so far........
It produced 199.2HP at the wheels with a Dyno Dynamics dynamometer at roughly 6500 rpm. It was set up with the 2.5 stock muffler system past the headers except with an Ansa twin tip exhaust.
Pleasing results so far........
Michael,
It is still set up with MAP but I still get this hesitation with on initial throttle. However, I have TPS set up but when I try to switch it to TPS on the Gotech, it does not run at all. I may need to recalibrate the TPS on GoTech but not sure how to do it. I think the initial reading is 33 and goes to about 81 on WOT.
I think 3 inch is a good idea. Speak to John - he has some info on exhaust design.
Cheers
It is still set up with MAP but I still get this hesitation with on initial throttle. However, I have TPS set up but when I try to switch it to TPS on the Gotech, it does not run at all. I may need to recalibrate the TPS on GoTech but not sure how to do it. I think the initial reading is 33 and goes to about 81 on WOT.
I think 3 inch is a good idea. Speak to John - he has some info on exhaust design.
Cheers
