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- Gold
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Brake Booster? Anything that can replace it?
I have been having trouble with my brake booster. It has been sporatic. Sometimes it would work, other times not. You can feel when it kicks in but never really happens in a predictable manner. It also won't feel like it is really doing as much as it should when it is working. I remember stopping used to be like pulling my eyes out, now it just stops, sometimes not well.
Could I be on the wrong track and should I be looking at other issues than the booster? I replaced all the pads and such and have blead the brakes many times with no air escaping.
Has anyone put in different booster or MC?
Thanks
Dean
Could I be on the wrong track and should I be looking at other issues than the booster? I replaced all the pads and such and have blead the brakes many times with no air escaping.
Has anyone put in different booster or MC?
Thanks
Dean
u probably have already done so but are u sure the hose from the booster to the intake plenum is not cracked or leaking. personally ive never had trouble with boosters themselves before. having said that if it is infact your booster y not just replace with another standard one. shouldnt cost much.
patzo_3l
3l gtv6 turbo 85'
2006 147 gta selespeed
1990 75 twinspark
1998 spider
2.0l gtv 85'
33 1.7ie
3l gtv6 turbo 85'
2006 147 gta selespeed
1990 75 twinspark
1998 spider
2.0l gtv 85'
33 1.7ie
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- Platinum
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look
v
even barry pity's the foolBarry wrote:Joey,BMW e30 BB is a direct bolt on.So is thr e34 525 BB.VW Jettais another bolt on(late model)So is new Fiat Palio .
The best one is the BMW e30.Master cyl. again,BMW E30 and VW.There are plenty others to use as well..Some Mercedes BB and M/cyl as well-used this in the 3.8l 24v blue car.
Barry
v
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Is this what you guys are taling about ?
http://replacement.car-stuff.com/parts/ ... -stuff.com
Pretty pricey !
http://replacement.car-stuff.com/parts/ ... -stuff.com
Pretty pricey !
PanchoRama
From the great master Del Compo "so, wat you wan doin?"
High Five. Sexy Time. You Lose
From the great master Del Compo "so, wat you wan doin?"
High Five. Sexy Time. You Lose
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Another thing to check is the booster check valve on the plenum. On the GTV6 and Milano these tend to get clogged internally because of the location on the plenum(Spiders use the same valve just located different on the intake manifold), just clean it out with carb cleaner. This could cause the sporadic problems you described.
- junglejustice
- Verde
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- Location: Granolaville, WA
I was looking at the remote dual-booster setups on the older Bertone GTV and other 105 cars and was wondering the same thing; is there some sort of a remote booster option that will allow for an after-market/remote setup to be used on a GTV6!?
As far as the options from the cross-referenced boosters mentioned above (since I have been kicking this one around quite a bit here as of late with various 24 valve conversions in the works), there is one major issue;
On the two 3.7 Milanos this is not an issue - we're converting from boosters to dual master set-ups with adjustable bias-bar adjustment.
On the US-model Milano Verdes and Platinums with ABS the 24 valve heads also clear the compact, square ABS set-ups just fine!
On the lower-end non-ABS Silver and Gold model Milanos, as well as on all GTV6s, that standard Ate booster sticks out too far and hits the left-side head!
In SA a simple swap to a BMW E21, E30 or any of the other boosters mentioned solves the problem, since a flatter booster now stays behind the heads and the larger diameter does not have any obstruction.
The reason that the boosters from these various cars fit so well on RHD South African and British GTV6 cars is just that - they are right-hand drivers! (The clutch masters on those cars are positioned just ahead of the driver with a weird linkage over to the passenger-side - LHS of the car - to operate the brake booster mounted remotely over on that side! (It is the same Ate part number 3.6127-0801.4 part - 124 1 H5F - as on our base-model US cars, but operated remotely!)
The larger diameters of the flat boosters don’t hit anything!
On a US and European model GTV6 for example, the clutch-master is mounted right next to the relatively long (small diameter) standard GTV6 booster (BOTH just ahead of the driver on the left-hand side!) A larger, flatter booster solves the head-clearance issue, but it hits the clutch master - you're trading one problem for another.
I know that there are various combinations of Alfetta pedal-boxes and 164 boosters that solve this problem, but I sure wish that there were a flat, small diameter booster with the same diameter of the standard GTV6 booster so that it sits flatter to the firewall AND still clears the clutch-master right next to it!
As far as the options from the cross-referenced boosters mentioned above (since I have been kicking this one around quite a bit here as of late with various 24 valve conversions in the works), there is one major issue;
On the two 3.7 Milanos this is not an issue - we're converting from boosters to dual master set-ups with adjustable bias-bar adjustment.
On the US-model Milano Verdes and Platinums with ABS the 24 valve heads also clear the compact, square ABS set-ups just fine!
On the lower-end non-ABS Silver and Gold model Milanos, as well as on all GTV6s, that standard Ate booster sticks out too far and hits the left-side head!
In SA a simple swap to a BMW E21, E30 or any of the other boosters mentioned solves the problem, since a flatter booster now stays behind the heads and the larger diameter does not have any obstruction.
The reason that the boosters from these various cars fit so well on RHD South African and British GTV6 cars is just that - they are right-hand drivers! (The clutch masters on those cars are positioned just ahead of the driver with a weird linkage over to the passenger-side - LHS of the car - to operate the brake booster mounted remotely over on that side! (It is the same Ate part number 3.6127-0801.4 part - 124 1 H5F - as on our base-model US cars, but operated remotely!)
The larger diameters of the flat boosters don’t hit anything!
On a US and European model GTV6 for example, the clutch-master is mounted right next to the relatively long (small diameter) standard GTV6 booster (BOTH just ahead of the driver on the left-hand side!) A larger, flatter booster solves the head-clearance issue, but it hits the clutch master - you're trading one problem for another.
I know that there are various combinations of Alfetta pedal-boxes and 164 boosters that solve this problem, but I sure wish that there were a flat, small diameter booster with the same diameter of the standard GTV6 booster so that it sits flatter to the firewall AND still clears the clutch-master right next to it!
...to Alfa, or not to Alfa? That is the question...
- junglejustice
- Verde
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- Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 1:19 am
- Location: Granolaville, WA
Decided to go with a late Spider booster on the Alfetta pedal-box with no modifications to the pedal-box required from the looks of it.
Prefer the boost-assist engineered for the weight of a Spider or an Alfetta over the levels of boost-assist engineered for the weight of a 164... Agree with Mats/others - running without the booster may not even be half-bad, but this is a road-car, so the Spider booster should be just the right compromise!
Refinished the booster where I cut off the Spider bracket for the clutch master, painted the pedals, new rubbers- just have to blast and paint the pedal box still...
Prefer the boost-assist engineered for the weight of a Spider or an Alfetta over the levels of boost-assist engineered for the weight of a 164... Agree with Mats/others - running without the booster may not even be half-bad, but this is a road-car, so the Spider booster should be just the right compromise!
Refinished the booster where I cut off the Spider bracket for the clutch master, painted the pedals, new rubbers- just have to blast and paint the pedal box still...
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...to Alfa, or not to Alfa? That is the question...