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[moynesyt5]

Thanks that is very helpful, MD.
Have you put this set up in the car, and if so does it give you a good pedal?
I did a similar set up in my old rally car (Volvo S70 T5 - no booing!), where i put two cylinders against the baulkhead and then installed a bias balance bar in the pedal. I work out the correct ratio for pivet point, and had no servo.
I had to change the cylinders a few times, each time a different size to try and get a good pedal.
It would be good to hear how your pedal is.
Also what modal Toyota was the master cylinder from?
Thanks
Dave

[Mats]

S70 T5 Tarmac Rally car?

That must have felt like driving a supertanker.

[moynesyt5]

That's what most people think, but it's the same size as a Scooby Impreza and it weighed apprx 1250kg. However it handled really well, I had Leda adjustable suspension, and thicker anti roll bars, and it was very stable, especially at high speed. And with moulded slick tyres, it gripped well too.

The one thing that let it down was the gearing, it was so high. I mixed 5 gearboxes together to get the top speed in 5th at the red line down to 145 mph, still too high.

It did have 320bhp and 545nm with a 34mm restrictor on the turbo and a standard ECU, not bad concidering WRC cars have about 380 bhp.

The only reason I sold it was that I wanted to go back to rear wheel drive, thus the Alfa!

Dave

[MD]

Dave,

Simply, in my race set up these brakes are superb with great feel but I had the debate over them in previous threads but some people don't necessarilly agree that my set up should work but as they have not driven it, the discussion is academic.

There is plenty of information about brake upgrades on this site using Alfa bits if you care to dig.

The MC is a standard 4 hole mount tandem 25mm cylinder that a local brake parts supplier should be able to sell you from a catalogue listing. Just take the photo along for reference. They are used on various applications. Mine comes from a Toyota delivery van , long forgotten the model but it is not important as I say.

Any tandem MC with similar mounting facilites will do. It doesn't have to be this one. Other important factors are where the output lines go for ease of attachment and position of the reservoir. I found trying to adapt remote reservoirs very tricky in the Alfetta to get suffient fall. At one stage it was looking like an inside cabin job sitting on the dashboard but I decided against that. Preferably get a MC with the reservoir already attached.

[moynesyt5]

Cheers MD, that is really helpful. As you have driven the car in anger with the set up, that is all I need to know. I had the same with the Volvo, that I needed a servo, but it didn't. I just needed to get the right size MC's to work.

I'll go an find an MC from a Toyota and give it a go. Understand about the resevoirs, I'll sort something out.

This is what I did to my old Volvo

Cheers and again thanks for the tips and help. Any other idea's you have? It's nice to hear from people who have changed the car from standard and used the car.

Dave

[MD]

If you want to use a twin cylinder set up, you have no choice but to hand make a completely purpose made pedal box as there is not really enough room on the factory one. This is being done here as well commercially but you dont want to know the price.

[moynesyt5]

I can believe the cost is huge! I'll do the similar set up to yours, and the key thing is the 25mm bore for the MC. The pipes will be made new and I will use braided flexible pipe.

Cheers

Dave

[moynesyt5]

I've been working steadily on the car, and I've attached a few photo's of the progress.

I've rewired the who car, striped the loom and kept only what is required. A Digidash is now install, which takes place of the dials and gauges. The unit has all the info you need, although I have install a normal rev counter.

The exhaust and header hare custom, with equal primary's.

The AHM throttle bodies are in place, I just need to connect the fuel rails and hose. I have installed the fuel pumps and swirl pot in the boot.

The power steering is in with a new cooler pipe, and the oil cooler is now in, just behind the grill.

The rear suspension, gearbox etc is now in and ready.

I've also removed all t he brake and clutch stock stuff, and have ordered a floor mounted pedal box set up, so I can get better brake balance and remove any problems with heat around the servo etc.

I'll get a few more photo's unloaded later.

Dave

[MD]

Good to see some progress on your weapon.

Couple of suggestions:-

Install all fuel and hydraulic lines to the rear away fron the transmission tunnel to prevent them being cut if the prop shaft lets go(and it does).

If you are going to this much trouble with modifications, why not install a proper shifter mechanism. I think these are made in the UK anyhow. The photo shows it being used in a front wheel drive set up but it can work in either configuration.

[kterkkila]

Those throttle bodies looks always so so cool. Nice headers too.

[moynesyt5]

Hi MD
The fuel line are inside the car, along the drivers side sill.

The gear change does look good, I may have a look at that.

Dave

[Zamani]

impressive exhaust manifold! Any photos of it when you were fabricating it?

[moynesyt5]

I didn't make the exhaust manifolds / headers. A company called Powerspeed in ashford, Kent, UK made these and the exhaust system for me.

I'll post some more closer photo's if it later today.

[Zamani]

Could you let me know how big the primary pipe size is? how much did they charge you?

[moynesyt5]

The primary manifold tube is 45mm dia. and the exhaust system is 63mm dia.
I paid £1,300 for the the lot. The system is tight up against the floor of the car, and fixed rigidly on rubbers, so there is not much movement.

I could have had stainless for an extra £200, but I want mild steel.