ALFAGTV6.COM

[Frost]

Hey guys so after a long time of sorting out other unfortionate grown up duties Im allowed to play with my toy again

So here are the first things Ive done so far in prepping my Alfetta sedan racecar

I have removed all the gear from the back doors and cut back all the unnecesary metal,also made a bracket to hold the window up.

I have removed the hood latch and fitted hood pins in its place.

I am busy stripping the dash of all the heater goodies

I am also removing the tar gunk thats on the floor and in the doors of the car(what a sh!t job,this is gonna take me a while)

Ok so stuff I still wanna do before sending the body off for the cage is as follows

Remove trunk latch and lock and replace with trunk spring latches(like the rally cars )
Cut out the spare wheel well and rivet a thin alluminuim plate over the hole

move battery to passanger floor compartment along with the fire extinguisher.

I also want to remove the armature mech of the outer wiper arm and leave only the inner wiper to do duty(kevin need your advice here, is this allowed in trofeo)

Please guys if any of u have any other advice on body and interior work that should be done either befor or after I send it off to get the cage done please let me know as Im quite new to all this

Thanks in advance

[Mats]

Make sure you fit the seat and steering wheel (with pedal box in place) so you know where the main hoop goes.

Are fibreglass hood and bootlids allowed? Polycarbonate windows?

[Frost]

Some pics will post more as I go along.

Mats thanks I would have neglected the seat thing as I havent gotten seat rails or a seat yet.PS can I bolt the seat brackets to the original seatbolt holes or is adviseable for safety to tie roll cage bars into the floor and mount to that? also saw some guys just using the standard safetybelt bolt holes to mount the lap belt eyes of the harness this OK for safety or should I get other mount points with those plates u weld in enderneath the chassis.

Fiberglass bonnet etc and plexi windows are allowed but allas they are not destined for my budget

[Frost]

OK one more thing where the hec do I mount my external cut off switch,thought I could use the aerial hole on top of the front fender as its already there but alas the unit is to wide to fit inside the fender

[wlangley]

I was going to ask where you are located, but I see from the RHD car, not in the US. Australia? I am prepping a '79 sedan for SCCA ITB - it's my never-ending project.

I am building the cage myself (six-point), and I would definitely agree with having someone else do that for you. I guess I am about 50% done with mine (main hoop, a-pillar bars, footings for each), and I still need about 30 more feet of tubing to finish! Notch-and-weld, notch-and-weld, it goes on forever! Whatever it costs for someone else to do that for you, it's worth it (just make sure the builder knows the rules for the class you will be racing in).

Best of luck, I will be looking for updates on your progress!

w.

[kevin]

Frosti, good to see you back . Car looks good. Mats posted roll cage specs and drawings in my thread which helped alot with the new cage i am making in my car. He is right with putting seat in and pedals but you have more room in the Alfetta . Some of the chaps had cages fitted and could not even get there foot close to accelerator or vary there seat mounting points. Use same seat mount points But use large washes.(there is a spec in the handbook). Seatbelt point are more than strong enough from sides but must come from back hoop of cage not more than 15 deg angle through to of seat. New rule. Do the windows first as thats the cheapest and gut everything out of doors. use cable to activate locks inside.Like F40. Read Greg Gordons site on all the steps of suspension mods. It will definately put you on the right path(track).

[kevin]

Frosti, the cut off switch must be in the car in reach once you are strapped in. This cut off switch can be activated from external by means of a choke(i got two spare with big nob !!) cable drilled through a tiny 8mm hole withe the correct cut off sticker next to it. You can put this through arieal hole ore even one of the windscreen wiper holes. Very simple. You should look at this set up combined with your starter set up all on one panel.

[Frost]

OK so u have two spare big knobs

Ok so how exactly does this choke tie into the cut off switch,bought one from first race aleady will the choke be able to be retrofitted to my switch?

The guy that did AK's guilia's cage is gonna do mine he did an awesome job so real confident it'll be a winner but gonna steal some ideas from your post,thanks.

On the wiper rule,am I allowed to remove one wiper and place the center one vertically up to sweep down across the driverside ,or better yet remove it all together?

What will the plexiglass cost as I got a quote from MR Plastic that nearly gave me a heart attack.

Im from SA

[Frost]

A quick one here thinking ahead to when I start with suspension and brakes, I have a Volvo 850 brake booster assembly which I can get for Free, will this booster work well or should I go hunting for a BMW E30 one (I hear they work well,not shure though)

[Micke]

If your aiming for a race car it's probably best forgetting the booster completely. Improves feedback and reduces weight.

[Frost]

Excellent Idea

[kevin]

Frosti, you must have another look at mine and konrads car. The cut offs are not that big or obtrussive as I was saying. Just a little choke cable with a little knob running into the car attached to the cut off lever. If you look carefully on my car it comes out the front airvents below windscreen. With a huge cut off sticker. Leave booster in to start off until you have finished your pedal box then toss it. You will find that through the season the car will evolve constantly (and the budget) so get it on the track then spend and upgrade as you go on. Sure you must get the basics right before you start off but you need to taste that fun of four abreast fighting for one line into that hairpin at zwarkops.

[Duk]

Have read that the tar like insulation comes off quite well when dry ice is used to cool it. Not real easy to apply to the underside unless you have a rotisserie, but for inside the car it's straight forward. Just beware of frost bight (were thick gloves) if you use it.

[MD]

Ah Geez, the tar coating removal is piece of cake. Just get a cheap heat gun and 50mm scraper and a pair of gloves to prevent your fingers getting burnt by the heat gun.

Apply heat to the material. It bubbles up real quick. Scrape off while plyable and dump into garbage can. It's a breeze.

Hey Rubber Duckie; dry ice !!! Keep that up and I'll take back everything I said about you !!Get off that Cooper's will ya !

[Duk]

Hey Rubber Duckie; dry ice !!! Keep that up and I'll take back everything I said about you !!Get off that Cooper's will ya !

Your gunna need 1 bloody big crow bar to separate me from my Coopers