ok i detailed down the engine bay since everythings been running perfect and flawless figured id clean it up so i could search for any minor oil leaks and adress them..well now ive got a sick running condition under 2500rpm it soulds and feals alot like a rev limiter but its also tweeking the timing as ive heard it ping or knock and acceleration is total crap..idle hasnt change and everything above 2500 is still as it was clean and crisp if comeing off of a light VERY slow you can go thru the 1000-2500 gap slow and smooth and not have it happen or you can put your foot to the floor and miss it entirely ...but try and simply drive "normaly" thru the area and you get hit by it
im sure someone knows whats up or can point me in the right direction
Sounds like you have disturbed AFM, injectors or ignition. Have you checked all of your HT leads, the cap, plug ends, injector connectors etc etc? Sounds like an over fuelling issue?went thru and verifyed all elec plugs cleaned then and used dielectric grease on all connections as well as grounds..cap and rotor are semi new as well as the plugs(less than 2k miles) as well as a full clean and reseal of all the injectors....and thus why im stumped..teaches me to never clean the engine again
not sure if it matters or not but some time ago i had to unplug the cold start injector cause if the key was turned on and the engine wasnt running it would put out enuf fuel to flood the engine as well as pour gas out ontop of the air cleaner box
not sure if it matters or not but some time ago i had to unplug the cold start injector cause if the key was turned on and the engine wasnt running it would put out enuf fuel to flood the engine as well as pour gas out ontop of the air cleaner box
.Well my reply was going to be to check the plug on the cold start injector, but you have your answer I think. I dont know too much about the gtv6 injection system, but in my skyline, the cold start injector doesnt just do what it implies, it also supplies fuel during various conditions, and unplugging it would cause some running issues, though its ecu system being way advanced over the alfa one, would compensate and cope. Was your intention to replace the cold start injector or just leave it unplugged permanently? .
Also how and with what did you clean the injectors out with? was it done in a totally and clinically clean environment? Its easy to f@*k up injectors! even so called specialists screw them up half the time. At the pressures they run at, micron thick particles can screw em up. If you run the car on good qulity fuel, cleaning the injectors shouldn't be necessary.
What happened with the cold start injector when you had the rest cleaned? or did it crap out after the "service"?
I would start with returning the system to its designed and stock state. ie replace the cold start injector. if the car is pinking it cant be the timing? thats statically set, the ecu only alters the fuel mapping. I dont think the alfa ecu is smart enough or modern enough to alter ignition timing? I would suggest, the lack of a cold start injector is confusing the ecu and causing fuel map issues, hence pinking and knocking, ie maybe too lean. are the engine temps normal?
Perhaps one of the more clued up guys on the forum can shed light on it?
Also how and with what did you clean the injectors out with? was it done in a totally and clinically clean environment? Its easy to f@*k up injectors! even so called specialists screw them up half the time. At the pressures they run at, micron thick particles can screw em up. If you run the car on good qulity fuel, cleaning the injectors shouldn't be necessary.
What happened with the cold start injector when you had the rest cleaned? or did it crap out after the "service"?
I would start with returning the system to its designed and stock state. ie replace the cold start injector. if the car is pinking it cant be the timing? thats statically set, the ecu only alters the fuel mapping. I dont think the alfa ecu is smart enough or modern enough to alter ignition timing? I would suggest, the lack of a cold start injector is confusing the ecu and causing fuel map issues, hence pinking and knocking, ie maybe too lean. are the engine temps normal?
Perhaps one of the more clued up guys on the forum can shed light on it?
anotther thing to take into account ontop of what barry said is that if you did wash it with water toy need to be very careful as sometimes you will need to blow everything out more then once. especially in places like under the dizzy cap where even a droplet of water left after blowing it out will continually turn to steam and never dry. believe me steam never dries. it would almost pay to disconnect everything and leave them to air dry for a day if you have the time and periodically blow them out with compressed air. be careful tough as sometimes compresssed air only moves the water around to where you can see it and into nice warm places where steam can be generated.
id love to know more about the cold start injector if someone could point me in the right direction....it was unpluged and left unpluged cause well it doesnt get cold here...and if/when it descideds to snow it doesnt last more than a day soooo a cold start injector is about the last thing needed here lol and it wasnt cleaned....the rest of the injectors only needed the tip areas cleaned and were other wise fine due to being only about 70-80k miles old but the rubber seals were all shot and a couple of the tips(covers) were cracked so they were replaced or cleaned guess i should have been more specific..i wonder if that spare engine(the stock engine but with milano parts attatched to it) has a good cold start on it worth looking
sooo afm isues eh?..ive got a overly rich tuned spare i can swap on and see if the issue persists....anyone who can pop me a pic of the correct placements for everything in the afm so i can reset the spare?..god knows what the previous owners over the years had done to it the one im running now was the milano one that came with the swaped engine
no water in the plug wells and the dizzy looks to be dry...would it be safe to house the inside of the dizzy with silicon spray like i do my non injected cars?
i checked for water in everything i could...cant realy pop apart the spark controler and this afm is still sealed and id like to keep it that way lol
sooo afm isues eh?..ive got a overly rich tuned spare i can swap on and see if the issue persists....anyone who can pop me a pic of the correct placements for everything in the afm so i can reset the spare?..god knows what the previous owners over the years had done to it the one im running now was the milano one that came with the swaped engine
no water in the plug wells and the dizzy looks to be dry...would it be safe to house the inside of the dizzy with silicon spray like i do my non injected cars?
i checked for water in everything i could...cant realy pop apart the spark controler and this afm is still sealed and id like to keep it that way lol
ok so the cold start injector is unplugged. but this only means it does not get powere any more. you have to rememeber that it still could be leaking. for this reason when i have these troubles i remove it all together and simply machine up a little plate to cover the hole where it went. then make sure you find something that will block up the hose that was going the injector. i usually machine up a little lug and wedge it in and it works fine. i say to try this now. now heres the fun part, you get the cold start injector and throw it as hard as u can to your brother who is anyoning you all this time. then when he decides to through it back you say to him you were only trying to give him a nice gift.
well i swaped out the injector and verifyed the other one wasnt leaking by hooking it up to fuel while the engine was running with the old one installed and swaped it in pluged it in and zero change in condition..but it starts a lil faster lol...
swaped in my "rich condition" afm and all it did was amplify the problem and wouldnt even idle(tho i know its out of adjustment)
heres the kicker...the car runs flawless untill warmed up to normal op temp ..at wich point the above idle to 2500rpm hicup kicks in
ohh how i love carbed cars for not haveing these kinds of issues :p
swaped in my "rich condition" afm and all it did was amplify the problem and wouldnt even idle(tho i know its out of adjustment)
heres the kicker...the car runs flawless untill warmed up to normal op temp ..at wich point the above idle to 2500rpm hicup kicks in
ohh how i love carbed cars for not haveing these kinds of issues :p
I know it may seem obvious, but you might want to verify that you used the dielectric grease correctly. It's not a conductor. It will do a great job of stopping current flow. Should only be applied around a connector/termination after the connection is made. If the connector/termination is unmade, wipe off grease and re-apply new.sh0rtlife wrote:went thru and verifyed all elec plugs cleaned then and used dielectric grease on all connections as well as grounds..
Oh, vaseline works fine as dielectric grease too.
you thinking a injector temp sensor or the guage temp sensor?...got a spare injector side but not a spare guage side...er i think thats what they are LOL...ive a spare of the one on the drivers side front and the one to the passenger side wich is the emissions BS one and the far passenger side(not sure what one that is atm)..the far driver side i dont have a spare(orange and black spaded wires goto it)
