Re: Coilover sleeves for yellow konis ?
Old question, perhaps you already get the answer...Jack_Linguini wrote:BTW:What is the stock diameter of GTV6 torsion bars ?
Jim L
I just measure it this afternoon before to trow it to the bin (the big cleaning)
It is 23.5mm. from a 1981 gtv6.
2 stroke addict
hello hello..
Question to Ron suspention owners...
this will take just a few seconds of your time...
what is the diameter of the body of front shock absorber where it is threaded ? (also did you know the tread size ? guess its fine, like 1.25 or 1.5)
(i'm thinking to a 1/2 home made front kit, with 2 old shocks,i wanna see if its close to thread them)
thank you in advance.
Question to Ron suspention owners...
this will take just a few seconds of your time...
what is the diameter of the body of front shock absorber where it is threaded ? (also did you know the tread size ? guess its fine, like 1.25 or 1.5)
(i'm thinking to a 1/2 home made front kit, with 2 old shocks,i wanna see if its close to thread them)
thank you in advance.
2 stroke addict
zambon wrote:I am thinking I will make a adaptor plate to relocate the lower shock mount. I would like to move the mounting point about 1.5 cm toward the rear of the car. This would make it easier to fit the coilover inside the upper control arm.
Is there some problem with this plan?
I guess its the better idea for that problem in the upper control arm.
they did the same thing is rs kit or intrax kit.
after you should stay zen with that in regard of the castor value, no interference with arm and coilover
2 stroke addict
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Bad news...
Doesnt look like I am going to be able to fit my Bilstien coilover set. I repositioned the mount point with a spacer and that helped, I trimmed and trimmed from the control arm, and then I realized that with my large diameter spring (2.5ID), I am not going to be able to fix the upper spring seat high enough. I would have to add a spacer to move the seat down and out of the way of the chassis mount point or I would have to have the mount modified to give clearance. The spacer option wouldnt allow sufficient shock travel and I want to keep things reversable, so modifying the shock mount is no sale at this point.
I guess this is the reason why the RS kit has the coilover mounted upside down...
Looks like I am going to end up using plan B, a set of AVO coilovers that I picked up secondhand from a forum member.
Doesnt look like I am going to be able to fit my Bilstien coilover set. I repositioned the mount point with a spacer and that helped, I trimmed and trimmed from the control arm, and then I realized that with my large diameter spring (2.5ID), I am not going to be able to fix the upper spring seat high enough. I would have to add a spacer to move the seat down and out of the way of the chassis mount point or I would have to have the mount modified to give clearance. The spacer option wouldnt allow sufficient shock travel and I want to keep things reversable, so modifying the shock mount is no sale at this point.
I guess this is the reason why the RS kit has the coilover mounted upside down...
Looks like I am going to end up using plan B, a set of AVO coilovers that I picked up secondhand from a forum member.
Thanks Zamani,
You think that I need more spring rate than your old springs. Those springs are marked "150." You have stated that you think they are 125 lb/in. Do you think that they could be 150 lb/in? I am about 150 lbs and I stood on the spring and I dont think it moved one inch, but that isnt a very scientific test.
With only 150 lbs per inch of extra rate, do you think I should lower the car´s torsion bars all the way in order to run these?
If I buy a new set of springs, should I get 500lb (the heaviest I can find in 1 7/8in ID)?
You think that I need more spring rate than your old springs. Those springs are marked "150." You have stated that you think they are 125 lb/in. Do you think that they could be 150 lb/in? I am about 150 lbs and I stood on the spring and I dont think it moved one inch, but that isnt a very scientific test.
With only 150 lbs per inch of extra rate, do you think I should lower the car´s torsion bars all the way in order to run these?
If I buy a new set of springs, should I get 500lb (the heaviest I can find in 1 7/8in ID)?
So with these 116 series cars, is it still ideal to have the lower wishbone parallel to the ground? Hence, is that the reason why uprights have to be modified to bring the lower ball joint closer to the ground? Just wondering as mine sits quite higher up and isn't parallel to the ground because it's been lowered. Handling seems quite good esp with the RS kit.